where is drivers side blend door actuator located in a vehicle

 I attached the procedure and location of the mode door for you

Removal:

Warning: on vehicles equipped with airbags, disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in an accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.

1. Open hood and disconnect the negative battery cable remote terminal from the remote battery post.

2. Remove the left and right underpanel silencer/ducts.

Fig. 16 Blend Door Actuator Location

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3. Remove the two screws from the actuator which are accessible from the right side of the center stack.

4. Remove one screw from actuator on the left side.

5. Pull the actuator straight down from shaft and disconnect the electrical connection. Upon removal, note the shaft position of the actuator, because the shaft on this motor is keyed. When installing a new actuator, its shaft must be positioned in the same location.

Installation:

1. Connect the wire harness connector to the blend door actuator.

2. Install the blend door actuator on the HVAC housing, making sure its keyed shaft is positioned properly.

3. Install the three fastener screws and tighten to 2.2 Nm (20 in. Lbs.).

4. Install the left and right underpanel silencer/ducts.

5. Connect the negative battery cable remote terminal to the remote battery post.

blend door actuator location

Where is blower fan and resistor on 2002 Saturn L300

 BLOWER FAN AND RESISTOR LOCATION ON SATURN L300.

The motor is under the cowl at the base of the windshield you have to remove the wiper arms then the cowl cover then there is another cover over the motor you have to replace the motor a certain way or you could damage the re-circulation door.

All you need is a #2 philps screwdriver and a flat blade screwdriver to remove the plastic clip's there really is no secret way to replace them. There not the easiest screw's to take in and out but other then that it's not too bad of a job. Here's the repair manual's instruction's I will post for you but they say to remove the glove box which I have never had to do.

BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Open glove box door.

3. Remove glove box lamp assembly by pulling on lamp plunger.

4. Disconnect glove box lamp wiring harness from glove box lamp.

5. Remove right side I/P lower dash insulator retainers.

6. Pull insulator rearward to detach from forward insulator retainers.

7. Remove right side heater outlet assembly retainer and remove outlet.

8. Remove glove box door.

9. Remove glove box bin fasteners.

10. Slowly remove glove box bin tilting bin downward to expose the BCM module residing on top of the glove box.

11. Remove BCM module from glove box by sliding module out of attaching slots.

12. Remove glove box bin.

13. Disconnect recirculation actuator electrical connector.

14. Remove blower motor resistor screws.

15. Use electrical harness to pull resistor card out of module.

16. Disconnect blower resistor card from electrical connector.

Also read the clients reply for more help

My Saturn LW300 blower motor would go on, off especially on bumps in the road.

I followed your description on the diss-assembly and that got me to the resistor pack. Since I could wiggle the wire to the pack I knew there was a loose connection there.

I removed the resistor pack and slid off he white cover. There is a small circuit board. The board is not removable. You will break it if you try.

I soldered every connection very carefully avoiding any shorts. Be sure to heat the large connectors well allowing solder to flow freely.

This makes sure that the connections below the circuit board are refreshed.

I re-assembled the resistor, actuator motor and circuit plugs and tested it.

It worked perfectly,

Re-assembly of the glove box went well. My helper got the job of replacing all the stuff that was in the glove box.

saturn l300 blower motor resistor

How to Diagnose a No-Spark or Loss of Power Condition

 How do I check for spark on Daihatsu granmax

Misfires caused by a loss of power condition on a car can be tricky to diagnose, but are necessary to fix to avoid further damage and costly repairs.

Misfiring is a common drivability problem that may take some time to diagnose, depending on the cause. When an engine misfires, one or more cylinders fail to fire properly, either because of ignition or fuel-related issues. An engine misfire is accompanied by a loss of power directly proportional to the severity of the misfire.

While idling, the engine may shake so badly that vibrations can be felt throughout the vehicle. The engine may be running poorly and one or more cylinders may be misfiring. The check engine light may come on or keep flashing.

The most common cause for a misfire is a problem related to the ignition system. Misfiring can be caused by loss of spark; imbalanced air/fuel mixture; or loss of compression.

This article focuses on finding the source of misfires caused by the loss of spark. Loss of spark is caused by anything that prevents coil voltage from jumping the electrode gap at the end of the spark plug. This includes worn, fouled or damaged spark plugs, bad plug wires or a cracked distributor cap.

Sometimes, misfiring may not be caused by a total loss of spark but by incorrect sparking or by high-voltage electrical leaks.

Part 1 of 4: Locate the misfiring cylinder(s)

Materials Needed

Scan tool

Step 1: Scan the car to find the misfiring cylinders. Use a scan tool to find the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) numbers for the problem.

If you do not have access to a scan tool, your local parts store can scan your car for free.

Step 2: Get a printout with all the code numbers. The DTC numbers show specific circumstances where the collected data does not meet acceptable values.

Misfire codes are universal and go from P0300 to p03xx. “P” refers to Powertrain while 030x refers to a detected misfire. “X” refers to the cylinder in which the misfire occurred. For example: P0300 refers to a random misfire, P0304 refers to a misfire occurring in cylinder 4, while P0301 signifies cylinder 1 and so on.

Pay attention to all ignition coil primary circuit codes. There may be other DTCs such as coil codes or fuel pressure codes related to fuel, spark, or compression that can help you diagnose the problem.

Step 3: Identify the cylinders on your engine. Based on the type of engine your vehicle has, you can identify the specific cylinder or cylinders that are not firing.

A cylinder is the central part of a reciprocating engine or pump, and is the space in which a piston travels. Multiple cylinders are commonly arranged side by side in an engine block. Different engine types have the cylinders arranged in different positions.

If you have an inline engine, number 1 cylinder would be closest to the belts. If you have a “V” engine, do some research to find a diagram of the engine cylinders. All manufacturers use their own method of numbering cylinders, so check the manufacturer’s website for more information.

Part 2 of 4: Test the coil pack

The coil pack produces the high voltage needed for the spark plug to create a spark that starts the process of combustion. Test the coil pack to see if it is causing the misfiring problem.

Materials Needed

• Dielectric grease
• Ohmmeter
• Wrench

Step 1: Locate the spark plugs. Access the coil pack in order to test it. Turn off the car's engine and open the hood.

Locate the spark plugs and follow the spark plug wires until you locate the coil pack. Remove the spark plug wires and label them to make it easy to install them again.

• Tip: Depending on the make and model of your car, the coil pack might be at the side or the back of the engine.

• Warning: Always exercise caution when working with wires and spark plugs.

Unbolt the coil packs and remove the connector. Visually inspect the coil pack and the boot. When a high voltage leak occurs, it will burn the surrounding area. The usual indicator of this is discoloration.

• Tip: The boot can be replaced separately, if available. To correctly remove the boot from the spark plug, firmly grasp it, twist and pull it off. If the boot is old, you may have to use some force to twist it off. Do not use a screwdriver to try to pry it off.

Step 2: Check your spark plugs. Look for carbon tracking in the form of a black line running up and down the porcelain portion of the plug. This is evidence of the spark traveling down the plug to ground and is the most common cause for an intermittent misfire.

Step 3: Replace the plug. If the spark plug is misfiring, you may want to replace it. Ensure that you use dielectric grease when you install the new spark plug.

Dielectric grease or silicone grease is a waterproof, electrically insulating grease made by combining a silicone oil with a thickener. Dielectric grease is applied to electrical connectors, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.

Step 4: Remove the coil pack. Remove the bumper panels and the crash bar to enable easier access. Remove the three torx headed bolts from the coil pack that you are going to remove. Pull out the lower HT lead from the coil pack that you plan to remove.

Unplug the electrical connectors of the coil pack and use a wrench to remove the coil pack from the engine.

Step 5: Test the coils. Leave the coils unbolted and just barely resting on the plug. Start the engine.

• Warning: Make sure no part of your body is touching the car.

Using an insulated tool, lift the coil up by about ¼ of an inch. Look for electrical arcs and listen for a snapping noise that may indicate a high-voltage electrical leak. Adjust the amount you lift the coil to get a loudest sounding arc, but do not lift it by more than ½ an inch.

If you see a good spark at the coil, but not at the spark plug, then the problem may be caused by either a bad distributor cap, rotor, or carbon point and/or spring, or plug wires.

Look down in the spark plug tube. If you see the spark going to the tube, the boot is bad. If the arc slowing gets weaker, or goes away, the coil pack is bad.

Compare all the coils and determine which one is faulty if any.

• Tip: If half of your coils are underneath the intake manifold, and that is where the misfires is, remove the intake, replace the plugs, take the known good coils from the accessible bank and put them under the intake. Now you can load test the questionable coils.

Part 3 of 4: Test the spark plug wires

The spark plug wires can be tested in the same way as the coils.

Step 1: Remove the spark plug wire. First remove the wires from the plugs and look for obvious signs of a high voltage leak.

Look for cuts or scorch marks on the wire or on the insulation. Check for carbon tracking on the plug. Check the area for corrosion.

• Tip: Use a flashlight to visually inspect the spark plug wires.

Step 2: Test the wire. Rest the wire back on the plug to prepare for load testing. Start the engine.

Use an insulated tool to lift the wire off the plug, one at a time. Now the whole wire and the coil that supplies it is loaded. Use a jumper wire to ground an insulated screwdriver. Gently drag the screwdriver down the length of each spark plug wire, around the coil, and the boots.

Look for electrical arcs and listen for a snapping noise that may indicate a high-voltage electrical leak. If you see an electrical arc from the wire to the screwdriver, the wire is defective.

Part 4 of 4: Distributors

A distributor's job is to do as the name implies - distribute electrical current to individual cylinders at a predetermined time. The distributor is connected internally to the camshaft, which operates the opening and closing of cylinder head valves. As the camshaft lobes rotate, the distributor is powered, spinning a centralized rotor that has a magnetic ending which triggers individual electrical lobes as it spins in a clockwise direction.

Each electrical lobe is attached to a corresponding spark plug wire that distributes electrical current to each spark plug. The placement of each spark plug wire on the distributor cap is directly correlated to the engines firing order. For example; a standard V-8 General Motors engine has eight individual cylinders. However, each cylinder fires (or reaches top dead center) at a specific time for optimal engine efficiency. The standard firing order of this type of motor is 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, and 2.

Most of today's modern cars have replaced the distributor and points system with an ECM, or electronic control module that does a similar job to send electrical currents to each spark plug.

What causes spark loss issues with a distributor?

There are three specific components inside the distributor that may cause a lack of spark at the end of the spark plug to appear.

A broken distributor cap Moisture or condensation inside the distributor cap Broken distributor rotor

In order to diagnose the precise cause of the distributor failure, follow the steps outlined below.

Step 1: Locate your distributor cap. If you have a vehicle made before 2005, it is likely that you have a distributor and thus, a distributor cap. Cars, trucks and SUV's built after 2006 are more likely to have an ECM system.

Step 2: Inspect the outside of the distributor cap: Once you have located your distributor cap, the first thing you should do is complete a visual inspection to look for a few specific warning signs which include:

Loose fitting spark plug wires on top of the distributor cap Broken spark plug wires on the distributor cap Cracks along the sides of the distributor cap Verifying that the distributor cap clips are solidly attached to the distributor cap Determining if there is any water surrounding the distributor cap

Step 3: Mark the location of the distributor cap: Once you've inspected the outside portion of the distributor cap, the next step will be to remove the distributor cap. However, this is where the inspection and diagnosis can get tricky and may cause more problems if not properly handled. Before you think about taking the distributor cap off, make sure you mark the location of the cap precisely. The best way to complete this step is to grab a silver or red colored marker and draw a line directly on the edge of the distributor cap, and the distributor itself. This will ensure that when you replace the cap, it's not put on backwards.

Step 4: Remove the distributor cap: After you've marked the cap, you'll want to remove it to inspect the inside of the distributor cap. To remove the cap, you'll simply remove the clips or screws currently securing the cap to the distributor

Step 5: Inspect the rotor: The rotor is the long piece in the center of the distributor. Remove the rotor by simply sliding it off the contact post. If you notice that there is black powder located on the bottom of the rotor, this is a good indicator that the electrode is burnt and needs to be replaced. This could be the cause of the spark issue.

Step 6: Inspect the inside of the distributor cap for condensation: If you've checked the distributor rotor and found no problems with this piece, it is possible that condensation or water inside the distributor might be causing the spark problem. If you notice condensation inside the distributor cap, you'll need to purchase a new cap and rotor.

Step 7: Check the distributor for proper alignment: There are some instances where the distributor itself will become loose, which will impact the ignition timing. This does not impact the distributor's ability to produce a spark often, however, there are some instances where it might.

A misfiring engine is usually accompanied by a critical loss of power, which needs to be corrected promptly. It can be difficult to identify the cause of the misfiring, especially if the misfiring occurs only in certain conditions.

CAUSES OF PUMP SHAFT BROKEN

 What cause a power steering pump shaft to break on a 2004 GMC envoy.

This question always arise.

Why Does the Pump Shaft Keep Breaking?

It seems that most pump owners/operators immediately blame the manufacturer if the pump shaft breaks. Yet in most cases, it is not the manufacturers’ fault. This article explores the issue and the potential causes. While many of these points are specific to centrifugal pumps, several apply to all rotating machinery, including turbines, compressors and motors.

Credible pump manufacturers design their machine shafts for normal startup and operational factors, but some have higher margins for upset conditions and safety margins (think torque). The main reason that shafts break can often be traced to operational and system reasons.

Fatigue failure (also known as failure due to reversed bending fatigue with rotation) is the most common cause of pump shaft fractures/failures.

Pump Shaft Design

The shaft’s purpose is to transmit the rotational motion and power (torque) from the driver to the pump shaft components, mainly the impeller(s). The basic shaft design will address torque as the primary dynamic because torque is the most important design element (speed and power are integral factors of torque).

The design also addresses temperature, corrosion, metallurgy, bearing location, bearing size, cantilevered components (impellers and couplings), expected axial and radial hydraulic forces, keyway (key and key-seat and their associated geometry), fillet radius, shoulder fillets, ratio of diameter changes, and snap ring grooves or other penetrations.

Additionally, the axial placement (location) of major shaft components such as the impeller and coupling, as well as resulting rotor dynamics such as critical speed, are major factors in the equation for a reliable shaft.

All good initial shaft designs include a bending moment diagram and a modal analysis. This article does not address large and high-horsepower multistage pump shafts where design parameters include decisions whether to design for wet or dry running and rotor stiffness.

Many pump users erroneously blame the shaft material selection when the shaft breaks, thinking they require a stronger shaft. But choosing this “stronger must be better” path often treats the symptom rather than the problem. The shaft failure issue may occur less frequently, but the root cause remains.

A small percentage of pump shafts will fail because of metallurgical and manufacturing process issues such as undetected porosity in the base stock, improper annealing and/or other process treatments. Some fail due to improper machining, such as incorrect dimensions, tool drag, sharp radii, omission of and/or improper grinding and polishing. An even smaller portion fail because of inadequate design margins to allow for torque, fatigue and corrosion.

One other factor that can arguably be blamed on either the manufacturer or the user is the amount of cantilever in overhung pumps, known simply as the shaft’s L-over-D ratio (stated as L3 ÷ D4 or L3/D4, where L is the axial distance from the impeller centerline to the center of the radial bearing and D is the shaft’s diameter).

Also called the “slenderness ratio” or “shaft stiffness ratio,” it is an indication of how much the shaft will deflect (bend) due to radial hydraulic forces when the pump is operating away from the design point (best efficiency point, or BEP).

This ANSI pump shaft was improperly loaded by a belt and sheave arrangement that resulted in rotating bending failure. Note the multiple (minimum of 15) fracture origins on the periphery. The darker area near the middle of the shaft is the instantaneous fast fracture zone. (Courtesy of the author)

Treating the Symptom

Looking at the six most commonly used pump shaft materials reveals differences in hardness, strength and corrosion resistance. One point to note is the Young’s modulus for the materials almost all fit in the same range. The Young’s modulus is in essence the material’s elasticity—how many times can you bend it before it breaks? More important is how far can you bend it on each cycle before you exceed the material’s limits?

Young’s modulus should not be confused with strength, toughness or hardness. Since the most common shaft materials all have a similar Young’s modulus, the decision to change materials is rarely the single solution to correcting the root cause of shaft failure. End users will experience higher reliability by addressing the other operational factors.

The most common cause of shaft breakage is (rotational) tensile bending fatigue. These fracture types are a result of the bending stresses previously mentioned. For a given material, the number of cycles and, to some degree, the periodicity (frequency) and the distance (strain or amplitude) of the bending cycle will determine how long the shaft will remain as one piece. The fault initiates at the weakest point, which is typically a radius, fillet or keyway. The fault may also occur at a bending moment point.

For the most common pump shaft materials, the fractures from bending stresses will occur at right angles (90 degrees) to the shaft centerline, so these failures appear almost as if the shaft snapped off or was cut off at that failure point.

A less frequent mode of failure is fatigue from torsional stresses where the fracture occurs at a 45-degree angle to the shaft centerline. Torsional failures have increased with the advent of variable speed devices.

References

Mechanical Engineering Design (5th Edition), Joseph Shigley and Charles Mischke

Machinery Failure Analysis and Troubleshooting, Fred Geitner and Heinz Bloch

How Components Fail, ASM publication, Donald Wulpi

“Understanding Factors that Cause Shaft Failures,” Pumps & Systems, June 2007, by Cyndi Nyberg, EASA

Root Cause Failure Analysis—Understanding Mechanical Failures, Neville Sachs

To read other articles in the 'Common Pumping Mistakes' column, go here.

10 Probable Reasons That a Pump Shaft Breaks

1. Operating Away from BEP: Departure from operating in the allowable region of the pump’s BEP is likely the most common cause of shaft failure. Operation away from BEP creates unbalanced hydraulic radial forces. The deflection of the shaft due to the radial forces creates a bending force that will occur twice per shaft revolution. For example, a shaft rotating at 3,550 revolutions per minute (rpm) will bend 7,100 times per minute. This bending dynamic creates a shaft tensile bending fatigue. Most shafts can handle the high number of cycles if the amplitude (strain) of the deflection is low enough.
2. Bent Shaft: Bent shaft issues follow the same logic as a deflecting shaft referenced above. Purchase pumps and spare shafts from manufacturers that have high standards/specifications for shaft straightness. Due diligence would be prudent. Most tolerances for pump shafts are in the 0.001- to 0.002-inch range with the measurement as total indicator readout (TIR).
3. Unbalanced Impeller or Rotor: An unbalanced impeller will create “shaft whip” while in operation. The effect is the same as if the shaft was bent and/or deflected, even though the shaft would measure straight if you stopped the pump and checked the shaft. It could be argued that balancing the impeller is just as important for slower-speed pumps as faster-speed pumps. The number of bending cycles in a given time frame is reduced, but the amplitude (strain) of displacement (due to the imbalance) remains in the same range as the higher-speed factors.
4. Fluid Properties: Discussions on Newtonian versus non-Newtonian fluids will appear in a future article. Normally, the issue concerning the fluid properties involves a pump that was designed for a fluid of one (lower) viscosity but subjected to higher viscosities. An example could be as simple as the pump was selected and designed for pumping number 4 fuel oil at 95 F and later it is used to pump fuel oil at 35 F (approximated difference of 235 centipoise). Similar issues will result from an increase in specific gravity. Also note that corrosion will significantly reduce the fatigue strength of the shaft material. Shafts with higher corrosion resistance are a good choice in these environments.
5. Variable Speed: Torque and speed are inversely proportional. As the pump slows down, the shaft torque increases. For example, a 100-horsepower (hp) pump at 875 rpm requires twice as much torque as a 100-hp pump at 1,750 rpm. Besides the overall shaft maximum brake horsepower (BHP) limits, users must check the allowable BHP per 100 rpm limits for the pump application.
6. Misapplication: Ignoring manufacturer guidelines will lead to shaft issues. Many pump shafts have a derate factor if the pump is driven by an engine in lieu of an electric motor or steam turbine due to the intermittent versus continuous torque. If the pump is not direct drive (through a coupling) such as belt/sheave- or chain/sprocket-driven, there can be a significant shaft derating. Many self-priming trash and slurry pumps are designed to be belt-driven, so there is little issue. Pumps built for American National Standards Institute (ANSI) B73.1 specifications are not designed to be belt-driven (unless a jack-shaft is utilized). ANSI pumps may be belt- or engine-driven, but the maximum allowable horsepower is greatly reduced. Many pump manufacturers offer heavy-duty shafts as an optional extra, which can address the symptom when the root cause cannot be corrected.
7. Misalignment: Misalignment between the pump and the driver even in the slightest amount contributes to the bending moments. Usually this issue manifests as failed bearings before the shaft will break.
8. Vibration: Vibration from issues other than misalignment and imbalance —such as cavitation, passing vane frequency, critical speeds and harmonics — will cause stress on the shaft.
9. Incorrect Fitting of Components: Another reason is incorrect mounting of impellers and couplings to the shaft (incorrect fits and clearances whether too tight or too loose). The incorrect fits may result in fretting. Fretting wear contributes to fatigue failure. Keys and/or keyways that are not properly fitted also contribute to the issue. This author prefers to hand file the key to fit the key-seat.
10. Improper Speed: There are maximum pump speeds based on impeller inertia and on (peripheral) speed limits for belt drives (for example, the maximum belt speed for an ANSI pump is normally agreed to be 6,500 feet per minute). Additionally, there are cautions for low-speed operation beyond the increasing torque issue—such as the loss of hydraulic dampening effects (Lomakin Effect).

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Power Steering Pump Pulley

The power steering pump pulley is connected to the power steering system via one or two belts, depending on the make and model of your vehicle. The belt provides power to the power steering pump by turning the pulley. The power steering system works in an environment with high heat and friction, so various parts are bound to break and need to be replaced over time. If one part breaks, such as the belt, the pulley may need to be replaced as well. Watch for the following symptoms if you suspect a bad or failing power steering pump pulley.

1. Burning smell from engine

A burning smell from the engine means the belt is not tight enough or the power steering pump pulley has seized. When this happens, the belt can slip off or break from the drive train. This means the power steering pump pulley is not working correctly. A professional mechanic will need to diagnose the issue as to why the pulley is not working properly and causing the belt to slip. If needed, they can replace the power steering pump pulley to ensure it is working properly.

2. Choppy steering

Another sign your power steering pump pulley is not working properly is steering that is choppy or jumpy as you are driving down the road. This is caused by a slipping belt, which heats up the pulley system too much. The heat damages the seals and bearings in the power steering pump. As a result, the steering on your vehicle will not be as responsive or reliable as it was before.

3. Steering fails completely

If your vehicle will not steer at all, this is a serious problem that needs to be investigated by a mechanic. This can be caused by a variety of issues in the power steering system, such as the belt, idlers, tensioner, or the pump pulley. Only a professional should diagnose this problem so as to be sure all of the issues are properly taken care of, and your vehicle is safe to drive again.

If you notice a burning smell coming from your engine, choppy steering, or your steering fails altogether, have a mechanic service your vehicle immediately. Power steering is an important part of the safety of your vehicle, so any problems should be addressed as soon as the symptoms are noticed. 

MORE HELP 

If you’ve ever tried to drive a car without power steering, you know just how vital this important system is for modern driving. Power steering makes maneuvering your car easier, safer, and more comfortable for you and your passengers. It gives you the ability to swerve to avoid obstacles or unexpected intruders on the road such as animals, other vehicles, or pedestrians who aren’t paying attention. Your power steering plays a significant role when it comes to the safety and agility of your vehicle, meaning it needs to be dependable. And for the most part, your power steering system is. However, it’s not unbreakable nor is it immune to damage. There are actually a number of things that could go wrong with your power steering, and when they do, you could be stuck trying to keep your car under control without the help of this crucial system. In this blog we discuss the top five causes of power steering damage, as well as some tips for preventing power steering failure in your vehicle.

Contaminated Fluid

Power steering is a hydraulic system, meaning it uses the power of a force pushing on a liquid in order to create motion. These types of systems are capable of exerting extremely high amounts of force with little energy input, making it an effective way to control your car. However, this harmonious system only works properly when the hydraulic fluid is clean. Contaminated fluid can wear down fittings, clog the steering system, create an increase in friction, and even causes the failure of some components, such as your pump. This is why you should change your vehicle’s power steering fluid at the manufacturer-recommended interval, which you can find in your owner’s manual.

Improper Fluid Levels

In order for your power steering system to work properly, it needs a very precise amount of fluid running through it. Too much and your valves and seals could collapse under the pressure. Not enough and the fluid can’t exert the force needed to turn your car. Replacing your fluid on time will help prevent this issue, but any leaks can cause a loss of fluid that will ultimately lead to power steering failure.

Broken Belts

Power steering is made possible by an engine-powered pump. Because your engine is connected to your power steering pump, any stretching, fraying, corrosion or breakage can cause the immediate failure of your system. We recommend having your power steering belt checked with every maintenance service, and replacing it if it shows any signs of wear, aging, or damage.

Damaged Steering Pump

Your power steering pump is the main component in your system. They are used every time you drive your car. While pumps are quite durable, they can and will eventually wear out. Too much strain on a pump can cause them to fail prematurely (i.e. strain from being pushed to operational limits like turning your steering wheel all the way to the right or left). If you begin noticing a lot of noise when you turn the wheel, your pump may be on the verge of failure.

Too Much Force

Power steering can withstand some less-than-ideal road conditions, including potholes, unexpected bumps, or hard jolts against your wheels. However, it’s important to remember that your system isn’t invincible. Pumps, belts, and other steering system components can break if put under too much stress too quickly. This is why we strongly recommend avoiding particularly rough roads, unless you have a vehicle equipped with a steering pump designed to handle such obstacles, such as a 4x4 vehicle or all-terrain SUV used for off-road driving.

Power Steering Maintenance

Maintaining your power steering system is actually easier than you may think. By driving safely and predictably, you’ll prevent a lot of the sudden strain on your system and keep it working for many years to come. Just like most components of your vehicle, general maintenance can go a long way.

• CHECK YOUR HOSES AND POWER STEERING PRESSURES: THE POWER STEERING FLUID IN YOUR SYSTEM GOES THROUGH TWO DIFFERENT HOSES: A HIGH-PRESSURE AND A LOW-PRESSURE SIDE. LEAKS CAN FORM ON EITHER SIDE, SO IT’S IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THAT BOTH HOSES ARE NOT LEAKING.
• KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR STEERING FLUID: EVERY TIME YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL, CHECK YOUR CAR’S MOST IMPORTANT FLUIDS, INCLUDING YOUR COOLANT, BRAKE FLUID, AND POWER STEERING FLUID. IF YOUR POWER STEERING FLUID LOOKS LIKE IT’S GETTING DIRTY OR LOW, BRING YOUR CAR IN TO HAVE YOUR SYSTEM FLUSHED. THIS PROACTIVE MAINTENANCE COULD PREVENT YOU FROM HAVING TO PREMATURELY REPLACE YOUR PUMP.

Volkswagen Jetta TDI fuse box diagram

 Volkswagen Jetta TDI  fuse box diagram 

Volkswagen Jetta TDI  fuse location and details

Volkswagen fuse box

fuse number and fuse details

Click here for the fuse assignment of the interior fuse box.

1995 toyota Camry LE Model FUSE BOX

 TOYOTA CAMRY FUSE BOX

RADIO FUSE FOR 1995 TOYOTA CAMRY

CLOCK CONTROL  FUSE FOR TOYOTA CAMRY

THERE ARE TWO FUSE BOX IN TOYOTA CAMRY

There's two fuses that power the radio and the clock, you will have to check both. The first one is located in the fuse panel on the interior of the vehicle- left side. It's the 15amp CIG/RADIO fuse. Here's a diagram:

toyota camry fuse box

It's in the bottom center of the fuses.

The other one is in the fuse block under the hood. It's the 20amp DOME fuse. Here's a diagram:

It's toward the center of the fuses.

This will help.Thanks.

91 ford ranger fuse panel diagram

 FORD RANGER FUSE BOX DIAGRAM

FORD RANGER FUSE BOX DIAGRAM

This will help.Thanks.

Car want start no dash lights no power inside fuse box on

 NO DASH LIGHTS 

NO POWER IN CARS FUSE BOX

BMW 2004 325ci

Car want start no dash lights no power inside fuse box on top row just the bottom row .

You've likely got a blown fuse back by the battery. Fuse 108 is a 200A fuse that you can get right from the dealer. 

BMW CAR FUSE BOX

THIS WILL HELP.

Location of fuse box in my car

 WHERE IS CAR FUSE BOX LOCATED

HOW TO CHECK FUSE IN MY CAR

A fuse box is the box that houses the fuses and relays of an electrical system.Most vehicles also have a fuse box inside of the vehicle, usually located beneath the dash that houses the fuses for the interior electronics and accessories.

Most common fuses are only $10 to $20, although some specialty fuses are more than $100 to replace, in addition to diagnostic costs.Considering this, how much does it cost to replace a fuse box? Replacing a fuse box with a breaker box runs between $1,500 and $2,000

Fuse boxes are made to protect electrical circuits in the car from exposure to the elements preventing damage and short circuits. Fuses are made to control and safeguard electrical currents that flow through wires to electrical components. Drivers may experience difficulties with the radio, dome lights, and other electrical components within the vehicle when fuses are blown. While you may suspect your battery or alternator is responsible for a loss in electrical mechanisms, it’s entirely possible a blown fuse is the cause. Any time multiple fuses blow, it’s likely the fuse box is experiencing some sort of difficulty. Car fuse box service may be required when your car experiences troubles with one or more electrical components.

Causes. Faulty wiring or defective wiper motors can cause excessive current flow, resulting in a blown fuse. Defective switches may cause short circuits.Other electrical components, such as heating and cooling blower motors, power seats, electric fuel pumps or air conditioner can all cause fuses to blow.

While difficulty of just one electrical item is likely caused by a blown fuse, multiple electrical problems could be the result of a poor wiring harness or within the vehicle’s internal computer. Seeking the expertise of a trained professional should be your next step. For example, when the fuse box is clicking, and the car won’t start, a relay is often to blame because by some sort of failure from the vehicle’s computer, struggles within the ground wire on the control side of the relay, or difficulty with the power supply to the control area of the relay. Determining the cause is difficult and will require the use of a technician’s scan tool.

Electrical problems in vehicles that aren’t caused by the alternator or battery, are likely the result of a fuse that has overheated and melted, disrupting the flow of electricity. In some cases, a blown fuse may just be the symptom of a bigger problem, many times fuses blow from age and usage, or drivers and passengers have overloaded the vehicle’s accessories. Additionally, fuses blow from using the incorrect amperage than what is recommended or is of poor quality. Avoid replacing a 10-amp fuse with a 30-amp fuse. The 10-amp is designed to blow at a lesser current rate, when a 30-amp permits a higher current to pass through. A higher current passing through an area designed only for lower currents may result in damage to the component.

Fuses are the protectors of your vehicle’s electrical mechanisms. Relays within the fuse box help protect passengers from the high voltage produced by the battery and alternator. The fuse box is designed to house the fuses and relays to prevent damage from weather conditions, water, and other driving situations. Car fuse boxes may fail because of overheating for several reasons, particularly, added electrical accessories or components that produce overloaded currents.

You will notice, Dark, discolored and burned wires are signs of failure. Wires that have bubbles in the insulation have overheated. The panel and wiring will need to be replaced.

IN SOME CASES, THERE IS NO FUSE BOX.

If your vehicle was not equipped with fuses, an overloaded electrical current could cause wiring to overheat, melting the insulation, and could cause a fire. A large current to any electrical mechanism will cause instant failure. Fuses stabilize currents, allowing the mechanism to function seamlessly. On occasion though, the current may be too much for even the fuse causing it to blow. A fuse may have blown in your vehicle if you are struggling to start your vehicle, are no longer able to operate your headlights, windshield wipers, interior lights, radio, or other electrical components.

HOW TO LOCATE FUSE BOX IN A CAR

Locations of fuse boxes in vehicles may vary. The vehicle owner’s manual will provide details on where the fuse box is located in a car. Many vehicles possess two fuse boxes which are often located in the engine compartment as well as the inside the vehicle beneath or within the dashboard. Each box has a different purpose. The engine compartment fuse box is made to protect certain engine components including the anti-lock brake pump, engine control unit, and cooling system while the interior fuse box is used to protect cabin area electrical elements. Fuse boxes contain several fuses for many different functions and relays in one space, for convenience and protection from damages due to weather or collisions.

Fuses within the fuse box come in many different shapes, colors, and sizes. They’re used to stabilize the electrical current flowing through wires, protecting electronics from damage due to an overload of electricity. Most fuses in today’s vehicles are either a rectangular or cylinder shape. Rectangular fuses come with two push in-connectors that are linked by the fuse wiring protected by a plastic cover, which will blow when overloaded. Cylinder fuses have a similar look to a fluorescent light bulb. Either end has a protective housing with glass between the two. Between the metal ends is a thin fuse wire, protected by the glass, which burns through and blows when overloaded.

HOW TO REMOVE FUSE FROM CARS FUSE BOX

There are many cars and many fuse box. On some cars fuse box is hidden, and on some cars there is no fuse box.

If you are not able to locate your cars fuse box, please share your cars model and year,we will update you.

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