I have a 1995 Z24 chevy cavalier, I have power to my lights, stereo, and everything else. I turn my key to start the engine, and it clicks twice, and it hums. also, without the key even in the ignition, my alternator is making a quiet buzzing noise.
Obviously the alternator is running to earth inside ,could be a rectifier diode .change alternator and recharge battery
not enough power to throw solenoid in on the starter motor because the alternator has drained it .leave car a bit longer and nothing will work .disconnect battery now to stop it draining further and to avoid a possible fire risk.
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Use test light, connect clip on grnd. , touch tip on the starter wire while turning key , if it lights starter is faulty , no light, solenoid is faulty, if it lights and indicates starter is cause you can try to gently tap starter with plastic handle of screwdriver if tapping gets it moving then brushes in starter are dirty or near worn out hope this helps
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That symptom usually means the solenoid on the starter is bad and no longer is completing the circuit to engage the starter. A new starter will likely solve that issue. A series of rapid clicks would indicate a week battery. You can try repeatedly turning the key to the start position rapidly, sometimes the starter will start working. You can also try tapping the starter while somebody holds the key in the start position, if the starter engages place it.
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There are many types of clicking noises make sure what type of clicking you hear,when you turn the ignition off to on.
CAR WON'T START RAPID CLICKING NOISE.
CAR WON'T START ONE CLICK THEN NOTHING.
TICKING NOISE IN THE ENGINE WHEN TRYING TO START MY CAR.
CAR WON'T START JUST CLICKS BUT BATTERY IS GOOD.
CAR WON'T START CLICKING NOISE BUT LIGHTS WORK.
COMMON CAUSES Car Clicks When Trying to Start
You turn the key in the ignition and find that even though you're ready to take on the day, your car isn't. It won't start and it's making a clicking noise.
You would probably be right. That dreaded clicking noise can usually be traced to the battery, and the fix could be as simple as a jump-start or tightening a cable. Just one click, though, probably means the fault lies with the starter motor (more on that later).
IF YOU HEAR RAPID CLICKING...
IT MIGHT BE A BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR PROBLEM.
A rapid clicking noise when trying to start your car could mean there's something wrong within the electrical system. Perhaps your battery's dead, or your alternator, which charges the battery, isn't working correctly.
1. Battery Drained
First, did you leave the headlights or an interior light on, or something else that drained the battery while you were sleeping? If so, then a set of jumper cables and another car with a good battery should get you up and running in a short time.
If the source of the clicking is electrical, the starter (a small motor energized by the battery that gets the engine running) doesn't have enough juice to stay powered. So instead, it rapidly turns on and off and produces a clicking noise!
Keep in mind that, in cases like this, a misfiring starter is a symptom of the issue—not the cause. In all likelihood, your vehicle’s electrical system is to blame, which is why a jumpstart might get your car moving temporarily.
Once it’s running, have a qualified technician take a look at every part of the electrical system. You may need to replace your alternator or battery. Or, the solution could be as simple as removing corrosion from the battery cables to strengthen the battery's charge. Cables, Connections and Corrosion
Second, check the clamps for the cables connected to the battery. They may have come loose from road vibrations and are no longer making good electrical contact, so they need to be tightened. If corrosion has built up on the terminals, disconnecting the cables and cleaning off the muck might restore good connections.
If your car battery is giving you trouble, you're not alone. AAA says battery failures are among the top three reasons that members call for roadside assistance, with the bulk of those calls coming during summer.
Alternator Issues
If all of the above checks out, another possibility is that the alternator, which generates the power that recharges the battery, isn’t doing its job. Activating the starter motor drains much of the battery’s stored power and the alternator is supposed to replenish it, so if your battery itself is capable of taking a charge and tests OK, it needs to be rejuvenated between starts. An alternator should be tested by a technician to determine if it’s working properly.
IF YOU HEAR A SINGLE CLICK…
IT MIGHT BE A FAULTY STARTER.
Unlike an electrical problem, an issue with the starter or starter relay (a switch-like device that transmits power to the starter) will trigger a single loud clicking sound rather than rapid clicking sounds.
One of the symptoms of a bad starter is a single clicking noise when you turn the key or push the start button. Jumping the car can sometimes get it going again, but no guarantees. Most likely, you'll need to get your starter repaired or replaced.
If you can jumpstart your car, drive to your nearest repair shop to get the problem diagnosed. Don't assume you can hit the road without the clicking noise returning.
If your engine doesn't turn over despite a jumpstart, you'll probably need to arrange for a tow and then get the starter repaired or replaced by a qualified technician.
Starters can last anywhere from 30,000 miles to 200,000 miles. It depends on the vehicle and the driver. Factors such as harsh weather and the engine's condition can shorten a starter's lifespan.
Starter Motor
If the battery appears to be charged (the headlights, stereo and other accessories work) but you only hear one click, then the problem probably lies with the starter motor or the solenoid. The solenoid is the switch that engages the starter motor so it turns the flywheel and starts the engine. Unless you’re a skilled do-it-yourselfer on auto repairs, this is something a technician should diagnose.
When the cause of a no-start situation isn’t apparent, it’s better to consult a pro instead of guessing which parts you need to replace. That can turn into an expensive misadventure.
HOW TO REPLACE STARTER:
Single Click
If you hear a single click, similar to a light knock, it is likely the sound of a failing starter or failing starter relay. Other symptoms of a failing starter include a grinding or rumbling sound and an inability to turn the crank. If you are able to pinpoint the issue to the starter, follow the steps below for replacement.
You’re fully capable of doing this job yourself. Gather your tools, follow the steps below, and you’ll be cranking your new starter in no time.
Replacing Your Starter Basics
Estimated Time Needed: 1-2 hours
Skill Level: Beginner
Vehicle System: Starter
Safety
Working on your car can be dangerous and messy, so here’s exactly what you’ll need to ensure you don’t die, get maimed, or lose a finger.
Non-conductive mechanic gloves
Safety glasses
Closed-toe shoes
Slim-fitting clothes without hard surfaces, conductive materials, or loose material
Everything You’ll Need To Replace Your Starter
We’re not psychic, nor are we snooping through your toolbox or garage, so here’s exactly what you’ll need to get the job done.
TOOL LIST
Socket set
Screwdriver set
Pliers
Car jack
Jack stands
Wheel chocks
PARTS LIST
New starter
Organizing your tools and gear to change your starter so everything is easily reachable will save precious minutes waiting for your handy-dandy child or four-legged helper to bring you the sandpaper or blowtorch.
You’ll also need a flat workspace, such as a garage floor, driveway, or street parking. Check your local laws to make sure you’re not violating any codes when using the street because we aren’t getting your ride out of the clink.
How to Replace Your Starter
Let’s do this!
Lift the car if necessary.
Pop the hood and disconnect the battery terminals.
Locate the engine’s starter motor using your dusty manual or a quick Google search.
Remove any parts necessary to access the starter motor.
Disconnect any connections running to the starter motor.
Remove the starter.
Replace the old starter with the new unit.
Reconnect any connections to the new starter you removed from the old starter.
Replace any parts you had to remove to access the starter.
Lower the vehicle.
Reconnect the battery terminals.
Crank the engine.
It may not fire right away, so give it a few tries.
How Much Does It Cost To Replace a Battery?
A car battery costs between $50-$200, depending on its application.
How Much Does It Cost To Replace a Starter?
The part itself ranges between $200-$1,000, though that depends on your vehicle. Professional labor will cost you more.
What Causes a Bad Starter?
A bad starter could be caused by oil, dirt, and debris getting into the starter, along with loose connections, battery corrosion, and damaged parts. Age can also play a factor.
How Much Does It Cost To Replace an Alternator?
A brand-new alternator will set you back approximately $250-$1,000, though you can purchase a remanufactured unit for between $150-$500. However, if you get it professionally installed by a mechanic, you’ll also have to pay for labor.
Can Disconnecting the Battery Fix the Clicking?
Not likely. The old IT adage of “turning it off and on again” isn’t the right way to fix this particular issue.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is it that my car won’t start; it just clicks, but the battery is good?
A dead battery is the most common cause of a vehicle that makes a clicking noise but doesn’t start. If, however, you determine the battery is good, you could be dealing with a faulty starter, loose/corroded battery cables, or an engine mechanical problem. A faulty starter solenoid is also possible if the clicking noise you’re hearing is coming from the starter relay.
What does a starter solenoid clicking sound like?
As was mentioned, when the vehicle won’t crank or start, you may still hear the starter solenoid chattering or making a click sound.
MORE HELP ON THE SAME PROBLEM
CAR NOT STARTING JUST CLICKS WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY OFF TO ON
1. My Car Clicks But Won’t Start—What Does it Mean?
Common Causes of a Car That Clicks When Trying to Start
Dead Battery Faulty Starter Loose or Corroded Battery Terminals or Cables Engine Mechanical Problem A Faulty Starter Solenoid
How to Find Out What’s Causing Your No-Start & Clicking Noise Problem
1. Check the Battery, Terminals, and Cables
2. Check that Power is Getting to the Starter Solenoid
3. Test the Starter
4. Check the Engine for Mechanical Problems
My Car Clicks But Won’t Start—What Does it Mean?
To understand the clicking noise, you first need to know how a typical, modern starting system works. When you turn the key (or push the button) to start the engine, a control module or the ignition switch energizes the starter relay.
Electricity then flows from the battery, through the starter relay, and to the starter solenoid. Most modern vehicles have the starter solenoid mounted directly on top of the starter. Once the solenoid is energized, it moves a plunger that forces the starter motor’s pinion gear to engage the engine’s flywheel (or flexplate). At the same time, the plunger pushes a disc against a set of contacts, allowing the battery current to flow through the solenoid to the starter. As a result, the starter motor cranks the engine to get it going. So what does it mean if your car clicks but won’t start? If you hear a clicking noise (but nothing else) when trying to start your car, that means the starter solenoid or relay contacts are operating, but the starter isn’t cranking the engine. The click may be a rapid chattering sound or it may just be one or two audible clicks. Common Causes of a Car That Clicks When Trying to StartThere are two primary types of no-start conditions: no-crank-no-start and crank-no-start. Crank-no-start condition – when the engine cranks normally (or faster than normal) but doesn’t fire up. Usually, this points to an air/fuel delivery problem, a spark delivery problem, or a lack of compression. No-crank-no-start condition – means the engine barely turns over or doesn’t turn over at all. Typically, this points to a problem somewhere in the starting circuit. Dead BatteryA dead battery is the most common cause of a clicking noise when trying to start your car. Usually, you will hear a rapid succession of clicks. The noise indicates that the starter solenoid or relay is operating, but there isn’t enough battery current to turn the starter motor. In some cases, if the battery is depleted enough, there won’t be sufficient electrical energy to open and close the solenoid or relay multiple times. When that happens, you’ll likely hear either just one or two clicks or nothing at all. Faulty StarterAlthough not nearly as common, a faulty starter can result in a clicking sound when attempting to start your car. Usually, you’ll hear just a single click rather than chattering. The sound means the starter solenoid is (unsuccessfully) attempting to engage the starter. Loose or Corroded Battery Terminals or CablesLoose or corroded battery terminals or cables can create excessive electrical resistance in the starting circuit. As a result, the starter solenoid or relay may operate, but there won’t be enough current to spin the starter. Engine Mechanical ProblemMany people forget that an engine mechanical problem can also prevent a vehicle from starting. If the engine is seized, the starter motor solenoid or relay will close, creating an audible click. But because the engine is locked up, the starter won’t be able to turn it over to start the vehicle. A Faulty Starter SolenoidIf the starter relay is working but the solenoid is not, you may hear the relay click—but the solenoid will not engage the starter to crank the engine. How to Find Out What’s Causing Your No-Start & Clicking Noise ProblemNow that you’ve read the section above, you might be wondering: Is the clicking noise/no-start problem with my car due to a bad battery, a faulty starter, or something else? The only way to know for sure is to test each potential culprit—starting with the battery. 1. Check the Battery, Terminals, and CablesWhen your car won’t start, and all you get is a clicking noise, the battery is usually to blame. Begin your inspection by making sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, and that the battery cables are in good condition. Next, check the battery’s state of charge using a digital multimeter (DMM). If your battery has less than about 12 volts, you’ll want to charge it, then test it with a load tester. Most people don’t have access to a load tester, but nearly all auto parts stores do, and they’ll test your battery free of charge. 2. Check that Power is Getting to the Starter SolenoidDid the battery, terminals, and cables check out okay? If so, you’ll want to check whether power is getting to the solenoid on top of the starter. You can do this with an assistant and a DMM, as outlined in our article on symptoms of a bad starter. If you hear a clicking noise, but there’s no power at the solenoid, there’s a problem with the starter control circuit. Because the clicking indicates that the relay is working, you’ll want to focus on the portion of the circuit between the relay and the starter. On the other hand, if you’ve got power to the solenoid, but the vehicle won’t start, you may have either a bad starter or an engine mechanical problem. 3. Test the StarterThe next step is to check the starter. These days, the starter solenoid and motor usually come together as a single assembly. You can check both components by performing a starter bench test, as discussed in the same article (on bad starter symptoms) linked above. 4. Check the Engine for Mechanical ProblemsAt this point, you’ve checked all of the low-hanging fruit. The final step is to see whether the engine is seized. To do this, put a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt, then try to turn the engine over by hand. An engine that won’t budge is seized and has major internal mechanical problems. for more help follow the link below
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the JBL system in my vehicle and want to hook up the jbl amp and sub amp. The JBL amp simply plugs into the wiring harnes but where do I connect the yellow and red wires from the sub amp?
According to the diagram the yellow is power and always hot but what does "amp power return" mean on the red wire?
The Return is your negative. Use a voltmeter and you will see this.
For speakers, since the current is basically alternating, the "+" and "-" are for reference to hook all of the speakers up in the same "polarity" so that a drum beat pushes all of the speaker cones in the same direction - outward, for example. If you connect even one speaker in the opposite polarity, it will negate or cancel much of the sound energy from the remaining speakers and the db or sound pressure output of the system will be reduced.
BL = Blue
N = Natural
BK = Black
O = Orange
BR = Brown
PK = Pink
DB = Dark Blue
P = Purple
DG = Dark Green
R = Red
GR = Green
T = Tan
GY = Gray
W = White
LB = Light Blue
Y = Yellow
LG = Light Green
The speaker outputs according to the first diagram are (from top to bottom):
LF + LF - LR + LR - RF + RF - RR + RR -
For the subwoofer, BLACK is "+" and the BLACK/WHITE stripe is "-".
C451 is to the front/rear woofers (right and left front+rear woofers are tied together) C452 is for the front and rear tweeters (each tweeter is separate channel) C453 is the input from the radio.
JBL SPEAKER WIRING LINCOLN
The amp is located directly under the eye level brake light, in the trunk. You will have to drop the carpet from the inside of the trunk ceiling in front of the trunk opening. There are four large round plastic fasteners that hold the carpet panel up. They are just to the front of the trunk lip. Once the four fasteners are out and the carpet panel is loose from the trunk ceiling, you can just pull the whole thing out of the trunk and set it aside. (It folds down behind the seat, but there are no more fasteners.) The four fasteners are just "Christmas tree" fasteners. I usually use a door panel removal tool or in the absence of that, a set of open needle nose pliers with one jaw forced under each side of the button will suffice to pry the button fastener out with little damage.
You will see the large black finned amp right in your face hanging from the underside of the package tray. If you have premium sound, it will be an aluminum colored unit. There are two plugs. One is power and speakers. The other one will be the other end of the gray cable that you cut. (audio in) There is nothing else in there but the wires that carried the audio signal from the dash.
black JBL audio amp CONNECTOR LOCATION
To illustrate where to find the keyless entry code (red circle) but just to the left is the black JBL audio amp. (In fact, the gray wire from the front runs right through the red circle.) The power and speaker cable is just out of the picture to the left.
This view is from inside the trunk looking up under the package tray. You can see the passenger side rear speaker in the image.
Replacing the canister and valve is simple, just disconnect hoses, remove bolts and reconnect. Just make sure to mark all the hoses before disconnecting, and that the valve "O" ring is in place.
NISSAN EVAP LOCATION
for 2000 NISSAN ALTIMA
It is in the rear of the vehicle. just look under the rear trunk area under the car.
ON 1998 NISSAN ALTIMA it Is located behind the l/r wheel. It you can remove the bolts on the canister to remove the control motor. Use a small screwdriver to move the plunger which sometimes get stuck. You can also use some jumper wires to hook it up to the battery to check the plunger operation. Also blow out the hose lines you see in the area. My light came on because a line was blocked from a moth nest.
ON 2000 NISSAN FRONTIER IT is located over the spare tire area , the reason for replacement of the canister is that valve is bolted to the canister .
green car with a key flashing and car will not start
This issue was asked by one of our customer
What is the light on the dashboard that shows a car on an…
what is the green light on the dashboard that shows a green car on an Mitsubishi Eclipse 2002 ? I went to get some food and turned off then about 10 minutes later tried to started and it wouldn't go, there is good battery and and a full tank of gas and oil and everything !
The solution for this issue is as follows:
The green light on the dash is the immobilizer light. This is indicating a malfunction in the immobilizer system which will prevent the engine from starting.
As long as that light comes on, the immobilizer system is in protected mode and your fuel injectors will not work (preventing the engine from starting).
Did anything change from the last time you drove the car? Did you use a different key, or have another vehicles key on the key ring? Do you have any electronics near the steering wheel area (navigation, cell phone, etc)?
that is the immobilizer active fault light; here is how the system works:
The ignition key has a small RF chip inside it that send a weak radio signal.
The ignition housing has an antenna around the end of it that reads the RF signal from the key.
The immobilizer ecu receives this signal and then sends it to the PCM.
The PCM then compares this signal to the stored pattern it has saved in it from when the key was programmed.
If the light is on, this is indicating a malfunction occurred in the process. While trouble codes can be read on this (with a full scan tool, not a code reader), there are really only 3 general faults that would come up:
Incorrect key
Key read error
Communication error (implying between immobilizer ecu and PCM)
The reason I asked the questions about changes to scenario is that the most common causes for this are trying a different key that hasn't been used in a while and is either not programmed or lost programming, or interference from nearby electronic devices that emit radio frequencies... for example putting a cell phone on the top of the column to rest can cause issues, as can a GPS device too close, a RF key from another type of car on the same keyring, etc.
If none of these has occurred and there is no other bits to the story (for example just installed a radio between the time it ran and didn't run), it is most probable that the key simply lost programming somehow. Unfortunately at that point you are in the same position as if there were an other component fault; you need to get the vehicle to a dealer to further diagnose. From there they will attempt to program the key to determine if the key has failed. If it programs, it is likely the key memory was lost or the key failed.
If the system will not reprogram the key, there is a failure in the system that will need further addresses (key hard failure, immobilizer or PCM ecu failure, wiring issue between them).
Realistically, if there are no outside influences like we discussed, it is likely the key has failed. While it isn't extremely common, it does happen with some frequency.
Yes that would likely do it with the aftermarket key. They are well known for premature failure... and of course if the aftermarket key was never programmed that would be an issue as well.
On the subject of the latter point, it is important to know that the RF signal can be read for about 2 inches from the ignition housing, so if you had both keys on the same key ring, they would most often both start the car even if only one was good (or only one was programmed).
If the keys were on separate rings and one worked for a while and then just stopped, it is likely just a failure of the key... again not uncommon on aftermarket keys.
CUSTOMERS REPLY WITH IS SOLUTION AND HAPPINESS:
i went next morning and started the car, no problem, took it to the shop then i realize i have been using an after market key, strange, ... but we verified that by starting the car with both keys one original with transponder? and the other( the aftermarket one) so it started with both but then it went off again with the aftermarket one, so i used the original one and went to mitsubishi and got me a brand new one. I have the impression the car seems with more power and the engine does not hesitate, as it sometimes did, ... i am a happy man the car works great previously to going to the mitsubishi dealer the car was serviced and runs like it should ( a little plane ). Thank you for your help. Question why was it working with a different key ( not a mitsubishi one ? )
This conversation should do some help to someone facing same issue.
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