Is It easy To Replace clutch

 

Replacing clutch Myself

You can if you have the proper tools and know-how. Changing a clutch is a big job on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, and an even tougher job on a front-wheel drive car or minivan.

See this youtube video link on how to replace clutch:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ppg_70IM_qQ

Replacing the clutch is easy, just make sure your car is supported in the air. Remove all the bolts that are on the transmission, sliding it back just enough to reach the bolts that are holding the clutch on. Remove it and using a spline tool, line it up, put it back in the way you took it off.

It depends if its front or rear wheel drive. Automatic: remove linkage and then the transmission; then remove the pressure plate and clutch; possible resurface flywheel, if not replace. Next comes reassembly: install clutch and pressure plate, use clutch alignment tool to center, then tighten pressure plate to torque spec, and reassemble in reverse and tighten all associated parts to spec.

It seems simple enough: push the pedal and the clutch will disengage, allowing you to shift gears. If your clutch isn't working properly, however, you'll hear grinding noises telling you it's time for a new clutch. If you don't want to take your car to a garage, follow these steps to replace your car's clutch yourself.

Verify that your vehicle's clutch is the source of your problems and not the pedal-arm bushings, activating cables or the slave-master cylinder.

On a rear-wheel drive vehicle, the driveshaft, transmission and bellhousing have to be removed from underneath the vehicle to get at the clutch. The clutch can then be unbolted from the flywheel and replaced. Resurfacing the flywheel is recommended -- and required if the flywheel is warped, grooved, badly worn, heat discolored and/or contaminated with grease or oil. That means the flywheel has to come out, too. If the flywheel is cracked, it should be replaced.
Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the speedometer.


In addition to replacing the clutch, a new throw-out bearing is also recommended. Considering the labor involved to tear everything apart, it's risky to reuse an old throw-out bearing. It may not be noisy now, but it's hard to tell how many miles it might have left in it.
Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate.
Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel's friction surface is scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the flywheel, if needed.
Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel's center to be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there's no galling. Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal.

The pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft that supports the transmission input shaft should also be inspected. Replacement is recommended if your vehicle has a lot of miles on it.

Reinstalling the transmission is the most difficult part of the job because the transmission is heavy (which means you'll need a floor or transmission jack, or a pair of strong arms). The clutch must also be perfectly aligned (with a pilot tool) so the transmission input shaft will slip into place, once everything has been bolted together.

 With front-wheel drive, replacing the clutch is even more difficult because it involves pulling the engine or dropping the transaxle (both of which are major undertakings because of all the disassembly that's involved). For this, you'll need an engine hoist to pull the engine or a hoist or beam to support the engine from above while the transaxle comes out.

COST TO REPLACE CLUTCH:

Normally to replace the Clutch assembly, resurface the flywheel and Labor will run in the 600 to 700 dollar range. A problem that particular 5 speed transmission commonly has is that the arm that the throw out bearing is installed on wears out and damages the case. The throw out bearing arm assembly and bushings are very hard to locate and the last time I found them they were around 95 dollars. In extreme cases the transmission itself would have to be replaced if indeed the arm and bushings in the case are worn out. This of course any competent Transmission shop would be able to diagnosis prior to removal of the unit.
Average Transmission Repair Cost by Parts

The most common major transmission repair is a clutch replacement. Three parts are usually replaced during this repair, the pressure plate, clutch disc and throw out bearing. The pressure plate costs between $40 for a four cylinder economy car and $150 for a high performance eight cylinder. Clutch discs cost between $30 and $200, again with the high number being for a high performance vehicle. Throw out bearings cost between $20 and $50, depending on the application. Many parts stores carry matched set clutch repair kits. These cost between $100 and $800, again depending on the application and manufacturer. Other parts that are replaced often are the clutch cylinders, both master and slave. A clutch master cylinder runs between $20 and $50, while a slave cylinder costs between $10 and $40.

We charge $350 for a fwd that you supply the parts, this includes r&r; of transmission, clutch disc, pressure plate, t/o bearing, pilot bearing or bushing and removal of flywheel and reinstall. The flywheel should be resurfaced which usually runs around $50. This doesnt include any other parts that may need replacing such as master cly, cables, slave or mounts, engine oil seal. Sometimes not always these may need replacing.

Manual transmission will the clutch slip if there is not enough oil in it

If your clutch has been recently-replaced, have the clutch-release adjustment checked and re-calibrated. If it has been some time, replace the clutch immediately as it is either worn or damaged, and will cause more expensive damage if used further. Be sure that the mechanic checks for evidence of "rear engine oil seal" leakage AND "input-shaft seal leakage" as a precaution. ANY, EVEN SLIGHT, CONTAMINATION OF OIL ON THE CLUTCH FRICTION-DISC RUINS THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY. Any reputable shop will require employees to wash their hands prior to handling any clutch component whether new or existing. If you have not replaced your clutch recently, it may be so worn that it can get worn-down to the rivets, which if they make contact with the flywheel, will require that it be resurfaced, which adds a few hundred dollars more to the cost of the service. Be sure to have the entire "clutch release mechanism" inspected as well. 75% of the time, your problems are simply a worn-out clutch. 10% are due to oil-seal leakage from the engine or transmission, 13% are due to improper clutch-release adjustments, and 2% are due to clutch-release mechanism failures.

your clutch is worn-out or contaminated, either requiring a replacement and possibly a check of your engine's rear oil seal. If your foot is completely off the pedal and it slips for ANY reason, you need a new clutch....the reasons why are found upon the replacement procedure. There is NO other option with exception to an improper clutch-cable adjustment. There should be just a little tiny bit of "wiggle", or "play" in the clutch pedal. If there is, the clutch is gone, only replacement will discover why. If not, adjustment will correct the problem, but the excessive wear has already been done, because that clutch is slipping even when you don't feel it. At the least, you will need a flywheel resurfacing and a completely-new clutch kit.

Clutch Slips:--- 

This could be a number of things. Possibly your flywheel may not be machined correctly; or an improper linkage adjustment could be the problem; or the clutch may be out of adjustment.

In a manual transmission, gear oil (or grease) should not come in contact with the clutch at all. The idea is that when you release the clutch pedal, very high tension springs hold the clutch plate to the rotating disc connected to the engine. The material on the clutch plate is similar to the brake pads, and friction is necessary to transfer the rotating energy through the transmission to the drive system and, eventually, the wheels. Oil or grease would just make it slide, and your car would not move very much at all. It sounds like the clutch either needs adjusting (i.e.- more pressure on the plate) or complete replacement.

Clutch Chatters.

This could be any number of things including: Your flywheel might need to be machined, or there might be oil on your clutch plate lining; or the lining could be glazed. Worn lining, bad motor or transmission mounts, improper linkage adjustment may also contribute to chattering.

Nissan Sentra Clutch Replacement

Well, this vehicle has a fairly easy clutch to replace. I'm going to assume this is a 2WD vehicle and that you will be doing the job on the ground.
Complete clutch repair means determining the cause of the damage, fixing the problem and replacing all worn or damaged clutch system components. Replacement of all worn clutch system components is necessary to ensure the full service life of the clutch assembly. It is also an inexpensive insurance against recurring problems

Jack the front of the vehicle as high as you safely can and be sure you use jack stands to support the vehicle. Apply the parking brake and chock the wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling.

Remove the top two transmission bolts, 1 and 2, from the top while you let the transmission fluid drain out and before jacking the car up.

Now, remove the front wheels and remove the large axle nut from the end of the axle shaft. Push the axle shaft in. It won't move far, you just want to make sure it will move. If it doesn't, put the nut back on backwards and screw it in until it's flush with the end of the axle shaft. Put a piece of 2x4 over the end of the axle shaft and tap it loose. Never hit the end of the axle shaft alone. Doing so WILL destroy the threads.

Disconnect the lower ball joints from the lower control arms. There are two or three bolts that hold it on. Slide the axle shafts out of the hub and swing the struts rearward. You can tie them out of the way with some rope.

With a large screwdriver, get between the inner CV joint and transmission and pop the axle shafts out of the transmission. Be careful not to tear the a CV boots and lay them aside.

Next, remove the starter motor. Then remove the transmission housing bolts 3, 4 and 5. Place a floor jack under the transmission. When the transmission is supported properly, remove the last bolt, 6.

Get a pry bar between the transmission and engine block and pop the transmission loose. slide it back and down. I think that at this point I should mention you should get a mask to prevent breathing in the dust. Some clutches use asbestos and breathing it in can cause health problems.

Once the transmission is out of the way, you will see the pressure plate. There are six bolts that hold it in place. Loosen each one a turn at a time until the pressure plate hangs loose. Keeping things even is the key here. You might have to pop the pressure plate loose before you remove all the bolts.

Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Note the direction of the clutch disc so you can install the new one the same way. Some replacement clutch discs will be marked with "Flywheel side" on them. Insure the replacement clutch parts are identical to the old ones. If you are going to have the flywheel resurfaced, remove it now. Put a paint mark one bolt hole and a mark on the flywheel so you can position the flywheel the same way when you reinstall it.

Okay, the flywheel is back in and we're ready to go on. Clean any oil or rust preventative off the face of the pressure plate. I rough up both sides of the clutch disc and pressure plate with some 100 grit sand paper.

If you bought a kit, there should be a clutch alignment tool in it. Put the tool through the clutch disc and, with the pressure plate, put it into position. Did you make sure you have the clutch disc facing the right way? Now start the six pressure plate bolts.

With the tool line up the clutch disc in the pilot hole. While holding the tool and clutch disc in position, tighten the pressure plat bolts in a diagonal pattern one turn at a time. Keep going until the bolts are tight, 22 foot pounds.

Problems Occur:- I just replaced clutch. Now the car wont go into gear

usually when that happens it is because the input shaft is grabbing the pilot bearing and not stopping when the clutch is disengaged it sounds like you pilot bearing may have been damaged when reinstalling the trans

The two most common things that cause this after a clutch replacement are insufficient travel on the throwout bearing or a defective pressure plate. If the pressure plate isn't releasing evenly one side of it can drag, and not want to release. I have seen this about a dozen times in thew 35 years I have been working on Dodges. By far the most common problem is when the hydraulic system isn't moving the throwout bearing enough to disengage the clutch completely. I would suggest bleeding the clutch slave cylinder. If it has a little air in it, the system could possible work fine with a used clutch, but now it needs a bit more travel to operate a new clutch. The thicker and newer a clutch is the more travel the hydraulic system has to have to operate the clutch, and make it disengage to allow it to go into gear. It is possible that the throwout bearing was the wrong one, but if you carefully compared the two, you can eliminate that from the list of possible problems. By far the most common issue, is a little air in the hydraulic system that the old clutch system tolerated, but the new clutch system wont.

Replace the throwout bearing. Apply some white lithium grease to the shaft the bearing rides on, the ball and pivot for the clutch fork, the area the clutch fork rides on the throwout bearing and the splines of the input shaft.

Once that's done, move the transmission into position and, here comes the fun part, lift it up and into position. The transmission is not very heavy which makes things a lot easier. You may need to twist and turn the transmission to get the splines of the input shaft to line up with the splines of the clutch disc. In addition, the input shaft must be perpendicular to the clutch shaft. If you have the clutch disc positioned properly, it should slide right in when the splines mesh.

Now put a couple of bolts in and get the jack out of the way. That's it! Just work your way back and put everything back together, refill the transmission with transmission fluid and you will be done. When you replace the axle shaft nut, be sure you use a new cotter pin.

After Replacing clutch hydraulics assembly and it still wont go into gear:---

The only thing that can keep the transmission from shifting into gear with it running is for the clutch to not be releasing. You have covered all the normal stuff. Also the flywheel wont be the problem. I have been thinking about this and I just now came up with something that could cause this problem. The clutch disk, it isn't symmetrical on both sides. One side of it is almost flat in the center except for the springs, and the other side sticks out more. The flat side has to go towards the flywheel, or the clutch can fail to release. 

Other than this I am starting to wonder if the clutch pedal linkage might have been changed where the geometry is off, in a way where the travel is reduced at the master cylinder, like a shorter rod from the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder, this would do it too.

Then test driving :---

Clutch Grabs.

Once again this could be any number of things including: Your flywheel may not be machined properly, or it could be that oil is on the lining. It also might be worn lining, or a warped pressure plate. The release bearing could be problem. The cover, lever or diaphragm spring could be bent or the disc may be worn out.

Clutch Does Not Release.

It could be a worn pilot bearing or bushing, or worn release bearing. Improperly adjusted clutch or linkage or the fluid level in hydraulic system could be low..

Clutch Release Stroke Is Too Long.

Sometimes this could be caused by air in the hydraulic system or improper linkage adjustment.

Pretty simple and straightforward. It will probably take about five or six hours.

Clutch Makes Noises.

Your pilot bearing could be worn out or dry. The release bearing could be worn out. The transmission input shaft bearing could be worn out. Last but not least your release fork pivot could be worn or dry.

Clutch Pedal Feels Hard.

This could be from a worn out fork, worn out pressure plate,worn linkage or pedal assembly or a worn release bearing retainer.

It takes 5 to six hours to get this done.

Honda Clutch Replacement:

My clutch went out on my 98' Honda Civic. I was thinking of replacing it myself. Do I have to remove my transmission in order to get to my clutch? Is replacing a clutch something anybody can really do?

Yes, you will have to remove the transmission to replace the clutch. The clutch is located underneath the transmission housing. 

I would recommend replacing clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, flywheel bearing, resurfacing the flywheel if any hot spots or replacement if cracked.

As for cost, that is way under, parts alone are about $200, maybe a little cheaper. Labor time is from 6-10 hours. You will have to check your local repair shop for there hourly rate. Average Honda dealers run approximately $85-110 an hour. Smaller shops will be cheaper. If you could find someone to replace it for $500, I say go for it. Caution: you may get what you pay for.

Now for anyone able to do it, I would say no. Unless, you have a major set of tools including air tools. It is a lot of work, even for a trained technician. It is up to you, if you want to tackle this or not. I can get you some instructions if you would like, but going to be extensive.

Exploded view of a Honda manual trans axle.Here:

Common Transmission Problems and Repairs


Most transmission problems can be traced to parts that the average person can easily change. If have a funny smell coupled with limited acceleration, most likely your clutch is slipping. Try and adjust the clutch to see if this is all that is needed. If this doesn't help, or the smell is accompanied by a scratching noise, you need to replace the clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing. You may also need to have the flywheel turned, if there is excessive shininess or any grooves cut into the surface. If you are unable to shift gears when you depress the clutch, check to see if an adjustment is all that is required. If that doesn't fix the problem, then either the clutch master or slave cylinder need to be replaced. If the clutch arm doesn't move when the pedal is depressed, most likely the clutch master cylinder is faulty.

how do i replace a clutch on a 2007 Honda civic

On the new civics the engine will need to be supported and the subframe removed then the transmission removed to replace the clutch .

It is a pretty involved task to remove and replace the clutch on those especially if not working on a lift. 

2007 CIVIC - Manual Transmission Removal

Special Tools Required

Engine hanger/adapter VSB02C000015
Engine support hanger, A & Reds AAR-T-12566
Front subframe adapter VSB02C000016
2006 Civic engine hanger VSB02C000025

These special tools are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program 1-888-424-6857.

NOTE: Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.


Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write down the audio presets.Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel.


Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable.


Remove the battery.Remove the air cleaner assembly.


Remove the harness clips (A) and the intake air duct (B), then remove the battery base (C) with the coolant reservoir (D).

1. Remove the clutch line bracket (A), then carefully remove the slave cylinder (B) to avoid bending the clutch line.
   NOTE: Do not press the clutch pedal after the slave cylinder has been removed.

Disconnect the back-up light switch connector (A), the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (B), the reverse lockout solenoid connector (C), and the harness clips (D).
Remove the cotter pins (A) and lock pins (B), shift cable bracket (C), then disconnect the shift cables (D) from the top of the transmission housing. Carefully remove both cables and the bracket together to avoid bending the cables.

'06 model

'07-08 models

1. Remove the harness clips (A) from the clutch cable bracket (B) and harness bracket (C).

1. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket (A).

1. Remove the engine wire harness cover (A) by lifting up on the lock tab (B), then slide the harness forward off the air cleaner housing mounting bracket (C).

1. Attach the engine hanger (A) to the threaded holes in the cylinder head.

Install the front leg assembly (A), hook (B), and wingnut (C) from an A and Reds engine support hanger (AAR-T-12566) onto the 2006 Civic engine hanger. Carefully position the engine hanger on the vehicle, and attach the hook to the forward hole in the engine hanger/adapter (D). Tighten the wingnut by hand to lift and support the engine/transmission assembly.

NOTE: Use care when working around the windshield.

1. Remove the two upper transmission mounting bolts.

1. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box (A) by lifting up on the lock tabs (B), then move it aside.

1. Remove the engine control module (ECM) stay (A), then move it aside. Remove the clutch line clamp (B).

1. Disconnect the ground cable (A), then remove the transmission mount bracket bolts (B) and nuts (C). Remove the transmission mount bracket (D).
2. Raise the vehicle on the lift.

1. Remove the splash shield.
2. Drain the transmission fluid. 
   
   Reinstall the drain plug with a new washer.
   
   Separate the lower arm.

1. Remove the stiffner plate (A) and mounting bracket (B) from the steering gearbox. Disconnect the exhaust mounting rubber (C).

1. Remove the stiffner plate (A) and harness clip (B).

1. Remove the front mount mounting bolt (A) and nut (B) then, remove the lower radiator hose from the front mount bracket.

1. Remove the front engine mount bracket (A) from the transmission and engine.

1. Remove the lower torque rod mounting bolt.

1. Remove the middle subframe mounting bolts (A).

1. Note the reference marks (A) on both sides of the subframe that lines up with the body (B).

Attach the front subframe adapter to the front subframe by wrapping the band over the front subframe and attaching the end of the band to the front subframe adapter with the pin (A).


Raise the jack, and line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the corner of the jack base (B), then attach them securely.

1. Remove the front subframe mounting bolts (A) and front subframe (B).
   NOTE: Suspend the steering gearbox with an appropriate size wire.

Pry out the driveshafts inboard joint.

Remove the intermediate shaft.

1. Remove the clutch cover.
2. Support the transmission with the transmission jack.

Remove the transmission mounting bolts.

Pull the transmission away from the engine until the transmission mainshaft clears the clutch pressure plate.

Slowly lower the transmission about 150 mm (6 in). Check once again that all hoses and electrical wiring are disconnected and free from the transmission, then lower it all the way.

Remove the release fork boot (A) from the clutch housing (B).

Remove the release fork (C) from the clutch housing by squeezing the release fork set spring (D) with pliers. Remove the release bearing (E).

2007 CIVIC - Cowl Cover Replacement

Manual transmission repair can be accomplished by just about anyone with the proper tools and sufficiently clear and concise instructions to follow. Manual transmissions change gears with the application of the clutch pedal and the shifting of gears using a stick shift. This action disengages the transmission from the flywheel temporarily in order to be realigned with another set of gears. Automatic transmission repair differs from manual transmission repair because of the clutch assembly.

NOTE: Take care not to scratch the body.


Turn on the wiper switch, and move the windshield wiper arms 90 º.


Remove the center cowl cover (A).
-1 Remove the hood rear seal (B) by pulling it out.

-2 Remove the clips (C).

-3 Release three front hooks (D) from the edge of the under-cowl panel (E).

-4 Detach the clips (F, G) by carefully pulling the cover up, then remove the cover by releasing the hooks (H). Take care not to scratch the body.



Disconnect the windshield washer tube (I).

1. If necessary, remove the bolts (A, B), then remove the under-cowl panel (C).
2. Remove these items:
   • Windshield wiper arms:
     
     - 2-door
     
     - 4-door
     
     Front fender trim, both sides

Detach the clips by carefully pulling the side cowl cover (A) up, then remove the cover by releasing the hooks (B) from the front fender. Take care not to scratch the body. Repeat this step for the other side cowl cover, and disconnect the windshield washer tube.


Install the parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:


Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.


Make sure the washer tubes are connected securely.


Push the clips into place securely.