I have a 1995 Z24 chevy cavalier, I have power to my lights, stereo, and everything else. I turn my key to start the engine, and it clicks twice, and it hums. also, without the key even in the ignition, my alternator is making a quiet buzzing noise.
Obviously the alternator is running to earth inside ,could be a rectifier diode .change alternator and recharge battery
not enough power to throw solenoid in on the starter motor because the alternator has drained it .leave car a bit longer and nothing will work .disconnect battery now to stop it draining further and to avoid a possible fire risk.
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Use test light, connect clip on grnd. , touch tip on the starter wire while turning key , if it lights starter is faulty , no light, solenoid is faulty, if it lights and indicates starter is cause you can try to gently tap starter with plastic handle of screwdriver if tapping gets it moving then brushes in starter are dirty or near worn out hope this helps
Car Repair World
Troubleshoot All types of Car Problem with proper Solutions
That symptom usually means the solenoid on the starter is bad and no longer is completing the circuit to engage the starter. A new starter will likely solve that issue. A series of rapid clicks would indicate a week battery. You can try repeatedly turning the key to the start position rapidly, sometimes the starter will start working. You can also try tapping the starter while somebody holds the key in the start position, if the starter engages place it.
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There are many types of clicking noises make sure what type of clicking you hear,when you turn the ignition off to on.
CAR WON'T START RAPID CLICKING NOISE.
CAR WON'T START ONE CLICK THEN NOTHING.
TICKING NOISE IN THE ENGINE WHEN TRYING TO START MY CAR.
CAR WON'T START JUST CLICKS BUT BATTERY IS GOOD.
CAR WON'T START CLICKING NOISE BUT LIGHTS WORK.
COMMON CAUSES Car Clicks When Trying to Start
You turn the key in the ignition and find that even though you're ready to take on the day, your car isn't. It won't start and it's making a clicking noise.
You would probably be right. That dreaded clicking noise can usually be traced to the battery, and the fix could be as simple as a jump-start or tightening a cable. Just one click, though, probably means the fault lies with the starter motor (more on that later).
IF YOU HEAR RAPID CLICKING...
IT MIGHT BE A BATTERY OR ALTERNATOR PROBLEM.
A rapid clicking noise when trying to start your car could mean there's something wrong within the electrical system. Perhaps your battery's dead, or your alternator, which charges the battery, isn't working correctly.
1. Battery Drained
First, did you leave the headlights or an interior light on, or something else that drained the battery while you were sleeping? If so, then a set of jumper cables and another car with a good battery should get you up and running in a short time.
If the source of the clicking is electrical, the starter (a small motor energized by the battery that gets the engine running) doesn't have enough juice to stay powered. So instead, it rapidly turns on and off and produces a clicking noise!
Keep in mind that, in cases like this, a misfiring starter is a symptom of the issue—not the cause. In all likelihood, your vehicle’s electrical system is to blame, which is why a jumpstart might get your car moving temporarily.
Once it’s running, have a qualified technician take a look at every part of the electrical system. You may need to replace your alternator or battery. Or, the solution could be as simple as removing corrosion from the battery cables to strengthen the battery's charge. Cables, Connections and Corrosion
Second, check the clamps for the cables connected to the battery. They may have come loose from road vibrations and are no longer making good electrical contact, so they need to be tightened. If corrosion has built up on the terminals, disconnecting the cables and cleaning off the muck might restore good connections.
If your car battery is giving you trouble, you're not alone. AAA says battery failures are among the top three reasons that members call for roadside assistance, with the bulk of those calls coming during summer.
Alternator Issues
If all of the above checks out, another possibility is that the alternator, which generates the power that recharges the battery, isn’t doing its job. Activating the starter motor drains much of the battery’s stored power and the alternator is supposed to replenish it, so if your battery itself is capable of taking a charge and tests OK, it needs to be rejuvenated between starts. An alternator should be tested by a technician to determine if it’s working properly.
IF YOU HEAR A SINGLE CLICK…
IT MIGHT BE A FAULTY STARTER.
Unlike an electrical problem, an issue with the starter or starter relay (a switch-like device that transmits power to the starter) will trigger a single loud clicking sound rather than rapid clicking sounds.
One of the symptoms of a bad starter is a single clicking noise when you turn the key or push the start button. Jumping the car can sometimes get it going again, but no guarantees. Most likely, you'll need to get your starter repaired or replaced.
If you can jumpstart your car, drive to your nearest repair shop to get the problem diagnosed. Don't assume you can hit the road without the clicking noise returning.
If your engine doesn't turn over despite a jumpstart, you'll probably need to arrange for a tow and then get the starter repaired or replaced by a qualified technician.
Starters can last anywhere from 30,000 miles to 200,000 miles. It depends on the vehicle and the driver. Factors such as harsh weather and the engine's condition can shorten a starter's lifespan.
Starter Motor
If the battery appears to be charged (the headlights, stereo and other accessories work) but you only hear one click, then the problem probably lies with the starter motor or the solenoid. The solenoid is the switch that engages the starter motor so it turns the flywheel and starts the engine. Unless you’re a skilled do-it-yourselfer on auto repairs, this is something a technician should diagnose.
When the cause of a no-start situation isn’t apparent, it’s better to consult a pro instead of guessing which parts you need to replace. That can turn into an expensive misadventure.
HOW TO REPLACE STARTER:
Single Click
If you hear a single click, similar to a light knock, it is likely the sound of a failing starter or failing starter relay. Other symptoms of a failing starter include a grinding or rumbling sound and an inability to turn the crank. If you are able to pinpoint the issue to the starter, follow the steps below for replacement.
You’re fully capable of doing this job yourself. Gather your tools, follow the steps below, and you’ll be cranking your new starter in no time.
Replacing Your Starter Basics
Estimated Time Needed: 1-2 hours
Skill Level: Beginner
Vehicle System: Starter
Safety
Working on your car can be dangerous and messy, so here’s exactly what you’ll need to ensure you don’t die, get maimed, or lose a finger.
Non-conductive mechanic gloves
Safety glasses
Closed-toe shoes
Slim-fitting clothes without hard surfaces, conductive materials, or loose material
Everything You’ll Need To Replace Your Starter
We’re not psychic, nor are we snooping through your toolbox or garage, so here’s exactly what you’ll need to get the job done.
TOOL LIST
Socket set
Screwdriver set
Pliers
Car jack
Jack stands
Wheel chocks
PARTS LIST
New starter
Organizing your tools and gear to change your starter so everything is easily reachable will save precious minutes waiting for your handy-dandy child or four-legged helper to bring you the sandpaper or blowtorch.
You’ll also need a flat workspace, such as a garage floor, driveway, or street parking. Check your local laws to make sure you’re not violating any codes when using the street because we aren’t getting your ride out of the clink.
How to Replace Your Starter
Let’s do this!
Lift the car if necessary.
Pop the hood and disconnect the battery terminals.
Locate the engine’s starter motor using your dusty manual or a quick Google search.
Remove any parts necessary to access the starter motor.
Disconnect any connections running to the starter motor.
Remove the starter.
Replace the old starter with the new unit.
Reconnect any connections to the new starter you removed from the old starter.
Replace any parts you had to remove to access the starter.
Lower the vehicle.
Reconnect the battery terminals.
Crank the engine.
It may not fire right away, so give it a few tries.
How Much Does It Cost To Replace a Battery?
A car battery costs between $50-$200, depending on its application.
How Much Does It Cost To Replace a Starter?
The part itself ranges between $200-$1,000, though that depends on your vehicle. Professional labor will cost you more.
What Causes a Bad Starter?
A bad starter could be caused by oil, dirt, and debris getting into the starter, along with loose connections, battery corrosion, and damaged parts. Age can also play a factor.
How Much Does It Cost To Replace an Alternator?
A brand-new alternator will set you back approximately $250-$1,000, though you can purchase a remanufactured unit for between $150-$500. However, if you get it professionally installed by a mechanic, you’ll also have to pay for labor.
Can Disconnecting the Battery Fix the Clicking?
Not likely. The old IT adage of “turning it off and on again” isn’t the right way to fix this particular issue.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is it that my car won’t start; it just clicks, but the battery is good?
A dead battery is the most common cause of a vehicle that makes a clicking noise but doesn’t start. If, however, you determine the battery is good, you could be dealing with a faulty starter, loose/corroded battery cables, or an engine mechanical problem. A faulty starter solenoid is also possible if the clicking noise you’re hearing is coming from the starter relay.
What does a starter solenoid clicking sound like?
As was mentioned, when the vehicle won’t crank or start, you may still hear the starter solenoid chattering or making a click sound.
MORE HELP ON THE SAME PROBLEM
CAR NOT STARTING JUST CLICKS WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY OFF TO ON
1. My Car Clicks But Won’t Start—What Does it Mean?
Common Causes of a Car That Clicks When Trying to Start
Dead Battery Faulty Starter Loose or Corroded Battery Terminals or Cables Engine Mechanical Problem A Faulty Starter Solenoid
How to Find Out What’s Causing Your No-Start & Clicking Noise Problem
1. Check the Battery, Terminals, and Cables
2. Check that Power is Getting to the Starter Solenoid
3. Test the Starter
4. Check the Engine for Mechanical Problems
My Car Clicks But Won’t Start—What Does it Mean?
To understand the clicking noise, you first need to know how a typical, modern starting system works. When you turn the key (or push the button) to start the engine, a control module or the ignition switch energizes the starter relay.
Electricity then flows from the battery, through the starter relay, and to the starter solenoid. Most modern vehicles have the starter solenoid mounted directly on top of the starter. Once the solenoid is energized, it moves a plunger that forces the starter motor’s pinion gear to engage the engine’s flywheel (or flexplate). At the same time, the plunger pushes a disc against a set of contacts, allowing the battery current to flow through the solenoid to the starter. As a result, the starter motor cranks the engine to get it going. So what does it mean if your car clicks but won’t start? If you hear a clicking noise (but nothing else) when trying to start your car, that means the starter solenoid or relay contacts are operating, but the starter isn’t cranking the engine. The click may be a rapid chattering sound or it may just be one or two audible clicks. Common Causes of a Car That Clicks When Trying to StartThere are two primary types of no-start conditions: no-crank-no-start and crank-no-start. Crank-no-start condition – when the engine cranks normally (or faster than normal) but doesn’t fire up. Usually, this points to an air/fuel delivery problem, a spark delivery problem, or a lack of compression. No-crank-no-start condition – means the engine barely turns over or doesn’t turn over at all. Typically, this points to a problem somewhere in the starting circuit. Dead BatteryA dead battery is the most common cause of a clicking noise when trying to start your car. Usually, you will hear a rapid succession of clicks. The noise indicates that the starter solenoid or relay is operating, but there isn’t enough battery current to turn the starter motor. In some cases, if the battery is depleted enough, there won’t be sufficient electrical energy to open and close the solenoid or relay multiple times. When that happens, you’ll likely hear either just one or two clicks or nothing at all. Faulty StarterAlthough not nearly as common, a faulty starter can result in a clicking sound when attempting to start your car. Usually, you’ll hear just a single click rather than chattering. The sound means the starter solenoid is (unsuccessfully) attempting to engage the starter. Loose or Corroded Battery Terminals or CablesLoose or corroded battery terminals or cables can create excessive electrical resistance in the starting circuit. As a result, the starter solenoid or relay may operate, but there won’t be enough current to spin the starter. Engine Mechanical ProblemMany people forget that an engine mechanical problem can also prevent a vehicle from starting. If the engine is seized, the starter motor solenoid or relay will close, creating an audible click. But because the engine is locked up, the starter won’t be able to turn it over to start the vehicle. A Faulty Starter SolenoidIf the starter relay is working but the solenoid is not, you may hear the relay click—but the solenoid will not engage the starter to crank the engine. How to Find Out What’s Causing Your No-Start & Clicking Noise ProblemNow that you’ve read the section above, you might be wondering: Is the clicking noise/no-start problem with my car due to a bad battery, a faulty starter, or something else? The only way to know for sure is to test each potential culprit—starting with the battery. 1. Check the Battery, Terminals, and CablesWhen your car won’t start, and all you get is a clicking noise, the battery is usually to blame. Begin your inspection by making sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, and that the battery cables are in good condition. Next, check the battery’s state of charge using a digital multimeter (DMM). If your battery has less than about 12 volts, you’ll want to charge it, then test it with a load tester. Most people don’t have access to a load tester, but nearly all auto parts stores do, and they’ll test your battery free of charge. 2. Check that Power is Getting to the Starter SolenoidDid the battery, terminals, and cables check out okay? If so, you’ll want to check whether power is getting to the solenoid on top of the starter. You can do this with an assistant and a DMM, as outlined in our article on symptoms of a bad starter. If you hear a clicking noise, but there’s no power at the solenoid, there’s a problem with the starter control circuit. Because the clicking indicates that the relay is working, you’ll want to focus on the portion of the circuit between the relay and the starter. On the other hand, if you’ve got power to the solenoid, but the vehicle won’t start, you may have either a bad starter or an engine mechanical problem. 3. Test the StarterThe next step is to check the starter. These days, the starter solenoid and motor usually come together as a single assembly. You can check both components by performing a starter bench test, as discussed in the same article (on bad starter symptoms) linked above. 4. Check the Engine for Mechanical ProblemsAt this point, you’ve checked all of the low-hanging fruit. The final step is to see whether the engine is seized. To do this, put a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt, then try to turn the engine over by hand. An engine that won’t budge is seized and has major internal mechanical problems. for more help follow the link below
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the JBL system in my vehicle and want to hook up the jbl amp and sub amp. The JBL amp simply plugs into the wiring harnes but where do I connect the yellow and red wires from the sub amp?
According to the diagram the yellow is power and always hot but what does "amp power return" mean on the red wire?
The Return is your negative. Use a voltmeter and you will see this.
For speakers, since the current is basically alternating, the "+" and "-" are for reference to hook all of the speakers up in the same "polarity" so that a drum beat pushes all of the speaker cones in the same direction - outward, for example. If you connect even one speaker in the opposite polarity, it will negate or cancel much of the sound energy from the remaining speakers and the db or sound pressure output of the system will be reduced.
BL = Blue
N = Natural
BK = Black
O = Orange
BR = Brown
PK = Pink
DB = Dark Blue
P = Purple
DG = Dark Green
R = Red
GR = Green
T = Tan
GY = Gray
W = White
LB = Light Blue
Y = Yellow
LG = Light Green
The speaker outputs according to the first diagram are (from top to bottom):
LF + LF - LR + LR - RF + RF - RR + RR -
For the subwoofer, BLACK is "+" and the BLACK/WHITE stripe is "-".
C451 is to the front/rear woofers (right and left front+rear woofers are tied together) C452 is for the front and rear tweeters (each tweeter is separate channel) C453 is the input from the radio.
JBL SPEAKER WIRING LINCOLN
The amp is located directly under the eye level brake light, in the trunk. You will have to drop the carpet from the inside of the trunk ceiling in front of the trunk opening. There are four large round plastic fasteners that hold the carpet panel up. They are just to the front of the trunk lip. Once the four fasteners are out and the carpet panel is loose from the trunk ceiling, you can just pull the whole thing out of the trunk and set it aside. (It folds down behind the seat, but there are no more fasteners.) The four fasteners are just "Christmas tree" fasteners. I usually use a door panel removal tool or in the absence of that, a set of open needle nose pliers with one jaw forced under each side of the button will suffice to pry the button fastener out with little damage.
You will see the large black finned amp right in your face hanging from the underside of the package tray. If you have premium sound, it will be an aluminum colored unit. There are two plugs. One is power and speakers. The other one will be the other end of the gray cable that you cut. (audio in) There is nothing else in there but the wires that carried the audio signal from the dash.
black JBL audio amp CONNECTOR LOCATION
To illustrate where to find the keyless entry code (red circle) but just to the left is the black JBL audio amp. (In fact, the gray wire from the front runs right through the red circle.) The power and speaker cable is just out of the picture to the left.
This view is from inside the trunk looking up under the package tray. You can see the passenger side rear speaker in the image.
Replacing the canister and valve is simple, just disconnect hoses, remove bolts and reconnect. Just make sure to mark all the hoses before disconnecting, and that the valve "O" ring is in place.
NISSAN EVAP LOCATION
for 2000 NISSAN ALTIMA
It is in the rear of the vehicle. just look under the rear trunk area under the car.
ON 1998 NISSAN ALTIMA it Is located behind the l/r wheel. It you can remove the bolts on the canister to remove the control motor. Use a small screwdriver to move the plunger which sometimes get stuck. You can also use some jumper wires to hook it up to the battery to check the plunger operation. Also blow out the hose lines you see in the area. My light came on because a line was blocked from a moth nest.
ON 2000 NISSAN FRONTIER IT is located over the spare tire area , the reason for replacement of the canister is that valve is bolted to the canister .
green car with a key flashing and car will not start
This issue was asked by one of our customer
What is the light on the dashboard that shows a car on an…
what is the green light on the dashboard that shows a green car on an Mitsubishi Eclipse 2002 ? I went to get some food and turned off then about 10 minutes later tried to started and it wouldn't go, there is good battery and and a full tank of gas and oil and everything !
The solution for this issue is as follows:
The green light on the dash is the immobilizer light. This is indicating a malfunction in the immobilizer system which will prevent the engine from starting.
As long as that light comes on, the immobilizer system is in protected mode and your fuel injectors will not work (preventing the engine from starting).
Did anything change from the last time you drove the car? Did you use a different key, or have another vehicles key on the key ring? Do you have any electronics near the steering wheel area (navigation, cell phone, etc)?
that is the immobilizer active fault light; here is how the system works:
The ignition key has a small RF chip inside it that send a weak radio signal.
The ignition housing has an antenna around the end of it that reads the RF signal from the key.
The immobilizer ecu receives this signal and then sends it to the PCM.
The PCM then compares this signal to the stored pattern it has saved in it from when the key was programmed.
If the light is on, this is indicating a malfunction occurred in the process. While trouble codes can be read on this (with a full scan tool, not a code reader), there are really only 3 general faults that would come up:
Incorrect key
Key read error
Communication error (implying between immobilizer ecu and PCM)
The reason I asked the questions about changes to scenario is that the most common causes for this are trying a different key that hasn't been used in a while and is either not programmed or lost programming, or interference from nearby electronic devices that emit radio frequencies... for example putting a cell phone on the top of the column to rest can cause issues, as can a GPS device too close, a RF key from another type of car on the same keyring, etc.
If none of these has occurred and there is no other bits to the story (for example just installed a radio between the time it ran and didn't run), it is most probable that the key simply lost programming somehow. Unfortunately at that point you are in the same position as if there were an other component fault; you need to get the vehicle to a dealer to further diagnose. From there they will attempt to program the key to determine if the key has failed. If it programs, it is likely the key memory was lost or the key failed.
If the system will not reprogram the key, there is a failure in the system that will need further addresses (key hard failure, immobilizer or PCM ecu failure, wiring issue between them).
Realistically, if there are no outside influences like we discussed, it is likely the key has failed. While it isn't extremely common, it does happen with some frequency.
Yes that would likely do it with the aftermarket key. They are well known for premature failure... and of course if the aftermarket key was never programmed that would be an issue as well.
On the subject of the latter point, it is important to know that the RF signal can be read for about 2 inches from the ignition housing, so if you had both keys on the same key ring, they would most often both start the car even if only one was good (or only one was programmed).
If the keys were on separate rings and one worked for a while and then just stopped, it is likely just a failure of the key... again not uncommon on aftermarket keys.
CUSTOMERS REPLY WITH IS SOLUTION AND HAPPINESS:
i went next morning and started the car, no problem, took it to the shop then i realize i have been using an after market key, strange, ... but we verified that by starting the car with both keys one original with transponder? and the other( the aftermarket one) so it started with both but then it went off again with the aftermarket one, so i used the original one and went to mitsubishi and got me a brand new one. I have the impression the car seems with more power and the engine does not hesitate, as it sometimes did, ... i am a happy man the car works great previously to going to the mitsubishi dealer the car was serviced and runs like it should ( a little plane ). Thank you for your help. Question why was it working with a different key ( not a mitsubishi one ? )
This conversation should do some help to someone facing same issue.
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The odometer is a device that informs the user on the miles traveled by a particular vehicle. An odometer is designed in two types, mechanical and electronic. The readout of the mechanical odometer uses 6 rolling disks with numbers 1 through 9. Electronic odometers give you a digital readout of the mileage. Digital odometers are usually part of a larger digital display panel in newer vehicles, odometer displays are usually under the speedometer.
When your odometer ceases to work, most people assume they must replace the unit, which can get quite expensive. However, you can repair an odometer fairly easily. The odometer stops working because the gear within the odometer has worn out. You'll need no special tools to do this, but you must know what to watch out for or you could permanently damage the speedometer that is housed in the same gauge as the odometer. Don't worry about messing with the car's recorded mileage when you repair an odometer; you will not and cannot change the mileage it has recorded. Also note: the speedometer and odometer are part of the same gauge collectively referred to as the "speedometer gauge."
When buying a car the odometer tells you on the usage the car has been through. The issue with technical odometers is that the calls can become used and the equipment can line. Since the odometer is an inner piece there is no protective repair required.
Important: if an air bag warning light is illuminated while driving the air bag safety system has been disabled and will not activate in the event of an accident. The center of the steering wheel contains the airbag inflation module, which contains the nylon airbag and inflation unit. In case of an accident, an electrical signal is sent to the system that releases gas through a hole located behind the airbag inflation, which immediately fills the bag. The electric signal is passed through the coil assembly located on the steering column beneath the inflation module. Air bags aren't generally considered to be within the realm of the typical do-it-yourselfer (and rightly so) but of course, if you've got the right tools and manuals, anything is possible. A typical air bag system consists of several sensors located at various places within a car's structure along with the air bag itself. All cars today have two front air bags but their application has now proliferated with many high-line makers offering or including side air bags (mounted in the sides of the seat or door panels), side air bag "curtains" mounted on the side of the interior roof panel and there are even rear seat bags available as well.
AIR BAG OVERVIEW
Passenger vehicles and lumination vehicles are outfitted with air bag techniques in submission with federal automobile security expectations. These expectations need set up of inactive vehicle security techniques, to decrease the chance of serious damage in the occurrence of a affect. A inactive security program is one that functions instantly to offer discipline of the motorist and travelers in the occurrence of a affect.
Protection during a affect is provided by a amount of security gadgets. The car itself is developed to soak up the energy of a affect by crumpling, to support the energy of an affect. The entrance and back areas of a car are developed to fall while making the traveler area complete, creating a security location for the residents. The use of security gadgets helps to boost this feature by discipline the residents in the security location of the traveler area. Guiding content are developed to fall so as not to break the motorist on affect. Energy taking in supports are attached in the entrance doors and the sides of the car to support aspect affect accidents. The air bag is developed to work along with these security gadgets, to allow greater security of the residents during a affect. The use of security gadgets is the best security device in the car and their use is required for the air bag program to function properly, to secure the residents.
Air totes are developed to set up only under certain conditions. Air bag techniques are developed to set up during entrance end accidents of sufficient energy, to cause damage to the residents of the car. The affect area must be within a particular range of the centerline at the entrance of the car and the energy of the affect must reach a particular level to cause use of the air bag program. Alerts are used to determine if the collision satisfies the requirements for air bag use.
AIR BAG CONTROL MODULE AND ENERGY RESERVE MODULE
The air bag control module and the energy reserve module features are often mixed into one unit. The air bag control module is used to check the air bag program build and elements for problems, that may affect air bag function. The control module has the capability to generate and store analysis problems requirements, with regards to electrical wiring and element disaster and light the air bag caution lumination, as a problems indication for the motorist. Most air bag control quests have the capability to record and store information from sensors during a use occurrence in a affect. The information noted contains details appropriate to the order in which the collision sensors told use, as well as other car details that the maker may choose to have noted.
Diagnostic details is usually only available through the use of a check device. Reading and cleaning problems requirements usually requires a check device as well. Some analysis requirements are developed as latching requirements and cannot be removed. Latching requirements are created by use during a affect and need replacing of the control module to be eliminated. Analysis and repair of air bag techniques should only be used by qualified professionals. Energy reserve is used to offer back up energy to the air bag program, in the occurrence that energy provide is impaired during the affect. Energy reserve features are often mixed into the air bag module however, some companies may use endure alone energy reserve quests. Energy reserve is attained by the receiving of capacitors in the module. The energy reserve can be as high as 35 v and last for a amount of minutes after energy is eliminated.
THE AIR BAG
The air bag is filled by broadening gas, from the key of a propellant in the base of the air bag. The blowing up speed of the air bag is developed to offer an affect support before the residents are required against the inside elements of the car, by the energy of a affect. The air bag will shrink almost instantly due to large gaps placed in the bag, to allow gas to break free.
Driver aspect air totes are attached in the center of the rim. Wiring to the air bag is sent in the steering line and is developed to allow the rim to move without impacting the a continual of the air bag build. Some automobiles use a coiled flat line, placed in a houses that years and unwinds with spinning of the rim.
CRASH SENSORS
Crash sensors are used to provide present and a exterior source to fill the air bag. Crash sensors contain a swap that ends during the energy of a affect, to total a enterprise to the air bag. A regular collision indication swap involves a gold coated soccer tennis ball, held in place by a strong magnetic field. When a affect happens, the energy of the affect causes the soccer tennis ball to jar reduce from the magnetic field and travel down a small slam and close the enterprise to the air bag. The collision swap is situated in the indication and the sensors are developed to be set up in a particular route, comparative to the forward movement of the car. Most sensors have arrows showing the route they are set up in.
Most automobiles are outfitted with three collision sensors. One indication will provide present to the air bag, it is called the supplying indication. It is usually placed in the traveler area of the car. There are two sensors used to offer a exterior enterprise to the air bag. They are called the discerning sensors. One indication is usually situated at or near the entrance end of the car and the other is placed in the traveler area. Either one of these sensors can be used to total the earth enterprise to the air bag.
AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT
The air bag caution lumination assists to inform the motorist about the condition of the air bag program. The lumination is placed in or near the device group and is handled by the air bag control module. The air bag caution lumination will light when the key is turned to on, as a light check. When the car is started, the lumination will in brief remain on or expensive for a few seconds to indicate the program is business. A disaster in the air bag program will result in the lumination other lighted while the powerplant is running. Air bag function is almost always impaired when the air bag lumination is lighted to indicate a program disaster.
TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM
The footing control program is used to maintain fatigue grasp on the street exterior during speed. When a car is faster quickly, increased powerplant twisting can be used to the drive tires causing them to slide on the street exterior. When this loss of footing happens, car speed time is increased, while the steadiness and control over the car is reduced. The regular footing control program elements involves a footing control module, a caution lumination, a disengagement swap (some models), and elements of the anti-lock braking system program and the powerplant control program. The footing control module can be a endure alone element or part of the anti-lock braking system module.
Circumstances like area and location of the traveler, harshness of affect, and gear utilization are being considered prior to SRS action. To reduce the power and affect of safety bags, multi-stage inflators have been formulated to help control the power of use based on whether the affect was serious or average. According to a research, air totes when with hold devices, lowers the number of large due to auto damages by about eight percent.
Automotive air totes are made of a stretchable membrane layer which expands during a affect to provide support to the head and body to reduce damage. The complex term for the air bag safety program is added water discipline or (SIR), support discipline program, or second discipline program (SRS). Bob W. Hetrick, US Fast on, created the air bag program in 1951. Air bag engineering currently used in vehicles is resulting from a program used in jet in the 40s. The unique air totes were bladders, packed with started or pressurized air. That program was quite large in assessment with modern air bag engineering, but works on the same concepts.
Even in the situation of power disaster or cut-off, the analysis and giving component is capable of offering power to all the airbag systems. This component is tested each time the vehicle is switched on. In situation of disaster, an ABS caution light will expensive or stay on consistently asking for immediate attention. Additional care must be taken when disconnecting the anti-theft program and the power supply so as not to effect the performance of the airbag component.
The car must be flipped off completely with the rim in a immediately location. The power supply must be effectively turned off from adverse terminal and then followed by the positive terminal and a vendor specific period must complete to allow for capacitor eliminate. When working with the airbag component, do not face it towards your system or any exterior in situation of random blowing up to reduce damage.
Airbags fill when the car visitors an subject at the speed of 8-14 MPH. They instantly shrink at a temperatures of 300-400 stage F, in situation of fireplace. The overall performance of the program raises when it is used along with a seatbelt because your system is effectively located. It is always suggested to wear the seatbelt when the vehicle is in movement. The traveler in the front hold should be away from the air bag about 10 cm at all times to reduce any side effects to the traveler in the event of any sort of incident.
Power locks or electric locks allow the doors of a vehicle to be locked or unlocked automatically. A keyless entry remote control using a key fob can enable a user to activate the door locks from a short range outside the vehicle. The basic system components include: lock actuator, switches, wiring and a circuit breaker. Voltage is sent to the actuator by using a control switch which is connected to the 12 volt power source of the car through a circuit breaker.There are only a few main components of a power door lock system. Inside the car door, approximately behind the exterior door handle, is a metal latch that is the actual component that keeps the car door shut. A metal rod protruding from the bottom of the latch is connected to an actuator, which is a small motor that moves the latch up and down. Another metal rod protruding from the top of the latch is connected to the door lock button that sticks up at the top of the door. The exterior door handle is connected to a metal rod inside of the car door, but this rod engages with the latch only if the latch is in the "up" position. If the knob on the top of the door is pushed down or if the actuator is powered on to lower the latch, the rod connected to the door handle will disengage from the latch and will not be able to open the door.
Door Lock Actuator In some cases a body controller is used in conjunction with the door lock system. The body controller can unlock and lock doors when a correct condition exist such as lock the doors after 2 minutes of driving. Most actuators are normally located below the door latch of the car or are manufactured as part of the door latch. When the door is unlocked the actuator is supplied with power which excites an electrical coil, electromagnetism supplies the force to actuate the door latch. The actuator is the part of the power door lock system that makes it "powered." It has a metal or plastic exterior body, and its contents consist of a small electric motor, a series of gears and a small rack and pinion gear assembly. Electrical wires on the actuator's exterior connect it to both the car's primary power source and its computer system. When the computer system sends a signal to lock or unlock the door, it allows power to flow to the actuator. This makes the electric motor turn, which then causes a series of interlocking gears to turn along with it. The gears connect to a small, plastic rack and pinon assembly, which translates the cyclical movement of the gears to the back-and-forth movement of a plastic rod. When this rod moves up, it forces both the latch and the door lock knob to move up. When the rod moves down, it lowers the latch and the door lock knob.Some actuators are manufactured with an electric motor and a gear set is used to move a control rod to activate door lock. A series of gears act as a gear reduction to move a rack and pinion flat gear. The motor can be driven in both directions depending on the use of the switch to lock and unlock the door latch.
Convertible tops are a type of vehicle top that folds, or retracts. They are usually soft, but recently, some vehicles have been manufactured with hard tops that fold down and can be concealed. However, these hard tops are not known as convertibles. Instead, they are called retractable hardtops because their frames are usually made out of steel. A convertible top is usually made from canvas or vinyl and fits over a steel, rigid plastic or aluminum frame. When convertible cars were first manufactured, they initially were made with only two doors. This holds true today. The production of convertibles spiked between the 1950s and 1970s and used to be available with only a plastic rear window. These days, tops are more durable, and a heated glass window has replaced the plastic window in many convertible models. However, quite a few convertibles still do come with the plastic rear window.
A convertible car is a type of automobile which has a retracting or folding, soft or collapsible top. If the top is made out of steel, it is called as a retractable/removable hardtop and not a convertible. A convertible top is made from a flexible material, such as vinyl or canvas, and is made to fit over an articulated folding frame which is made out of steel, aluminum or rigid plastic. The folding design of the frame is elaborate and can vary. An electrical retraction mechanism can be designed to fold and unfold the frame which is also known as a power top.
How does it work? The folding design of the convertible top's frame can vary and can be elaborate. Some vehicles come with electric convertible tops, while other come equipped with manual convertible tops. The electric tops have a retraction mechanism that is designed to unfold and fold the frame, which is often referred to as the power top. The driver simply has to push a button, and the top retracts or goes up. Manual tops require that the driver unfasten the top's latches from the windshield before he can manually push the top down. In order to put the top up, he would have to pull it up manually and reattach the latches to the windshield. Problems with and maintenance of convertible tops Before a manual top can be lowered it must be un-fastened from the windshield frame before it is retracted. A Convertible car in Europe is known as "cabriolet" and a retractable hardtop is known as a "coupe convertible" or "coupe cabriolet". Convertibles are desired by many because of the look and the adventurous feeling it gives the passengers. Presidents and celebrities are featured riding in a convertible for the added exposure and easy access. Advertisements have always taken advantage of this instant factor of admiration and the association with the element of romance.
Convertible Top Initially when convertible cars began to be manufactured they were made with two doors. Only a few cars had the option of four doors. The production of convertibles boomed in the 1950s to 1970s. Owning a convertible car was more of a luxury at that time and was only used for special occasions. Tops have been made more durable and the plastic rear window has been replaced by heated glass which improved clarity. Structurally the vehicle top is the most important part of the car. The frame or chassis of a convertible car is built more rigid to keep the vehicle from flexing in normal usage. Convertible cars usually weigh more than fixed roof cars due to the added steel. The automatic convertible top system involves motors, switches and sensors. The latching and unlatching is performed automatically.
Common Problems Possibilities of failures and issues with convertible tops are vast. It is good practice to watch the top while in operation. Any kind of irregular motion or snagging is an indication of a malfunction and should be repaired.
Basic Maintenance It is recommended that the convertible be hand washed. Special vinyl cleaner is available for cleaning vinyl tops. Warm water with soap designed for vehicles should be safe for washing. If your water is hard, a water softener should be added to avoid spotting. Wax should never be applied on a convertible top. Soft tops should be protected using scotch guard and can be softened using a liquid fabric softener. The top should be cleaned in its entirety; spot cleaning can leave spots or rings. If the windows are made out of plastic, they should be cleaned on a regular basis with water and mild soap. Do not use an abrasive cleaner or cloth; they can scratch the plastic surface. Cleaning in a circular motion should be avoided and a side to side or top to bottom motion should be adopted. Never retract the top when wet without raising it at a later time to avoid mold. Mold can discolor the top and lead to replacement. The top should always be free of objects; even a small item such as a beach towel can damage the top.
One of the major problems that electric convertible tops have is failure issues. The electric motor that controls that top can sometimes fail and result in either the top not going up or the top not being able to go down. Also, convertible tops are prone to tearing. They need to be conditioned on a regular basis in order to prevent damage. In addition, the top should be hand-washed with soap and warm water. There is a special vinyl cleaner available that will clean the top as well. You can also use Scotch Guard to protect the top and soften it by using a liquid fabric softener. Never try to spot clean a top because it can leave rings or spots. Never use abrasive cleaners or cloths on the top, as they can damage it. Also, if you retract the top while it is wet, make sure that you raise it to avoid mold from growing on it.
If ALL CD's skip (store bought, MP3, recorded, etc), then Repair, Exchange or Replace is the only fix Since the CD Unit is part of the operation of the Navigation Unit that is why they want to change complete Repair "sometimes" is as much to Replace, also longer & not as long of warranty You may want to check On-Line, E-Bay etc as sometimes the same Model Unit can be less than Repair also you might want to call JO-DIs Repair & see if they can help or know of a shop you can ship to 1-800-969-5372
2004 Chrysler Pacifica whole center console (climate control, radio) is completely out
there are 3 fuses in common with this problem 3, 25 & 50, including a Power Relay that turns it on, "Run Relay" all located in Fuse Panel under Hood test voltage on "both" sides of fuses with Key On Be sure Relay clicks when Key is turned on otherwise, the shop that worked on it last should be responsible for the fix see diagram
