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Tuesday, 31 May 2016

Ford Brake System Diagram

Ford BRAKE SYSTEM DESCRIPTION


See Figure 1


Fig. Fig. 1: View of a common master cylinder mounting and line routing-F-150, F-250, F-350 and Bronco models

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General Information For Car Battery,Starter,,Starter Solenoid

CAR BATTERY STARTER STARTERSOLENOID 


The battery and starting motor are linked by very heavy electrical cables designed to minimize resistance to the flow of current. Generally, the major power supply cable that leaves the battery goes directly to the starter, while other electrical system needs are supplied by a smaller cable. During starter operation, power flows from the battery to the starter and is grounded through the vehicle's frame/body or engine and the battery's negative ground strap.

The starter is a specially designed, direct current electric motor capable of producing a great amount of power for its size. One thing that allows the motor to produce a great deal of power is its tremendous rotating speed. It drives the engine through a tiny pinion gear (attached to the starter's armature), which drives the very large flywheel ring gear at a greatly reduced speed. Another factor allowing it to produce so much power is that only intermittent operation is required of it. Thus, little allowance for air circulation is necessary, and the windings can be built into a very small space.

The starter solenoid is a magnetic device which employs the small current supplied by the start circuit of the ignition switch. This magnetic action moves a plunger which mechanically engages the starter and closes the heavy switch connecting it to the battery. The starting switch circuit usually consists of the starting switch contained within the ignition switch, a neutral safety switch or clutch pedal switch, and the wiring necessary to connect these in series with the starter solenoid or relay.

The pinion, a small gear, is mounted to a one way drive clutch. This clutch is splined to the starter armature shaft. When the ignition switch is moved to the START position, the solenoid plunger slides the pinion toward the flywheel ring gear via a collar and spring. If the teeth on the pinion and flywheel match properly, the pinion will engage the flywheel immediately. If the gear teeth butt one another, the spring will be compressed and will force the gears to mesh as soon as the starter turns far enough to allow them to do so. As the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel, it closes the contacts that connect the battery and starter, then the engine is cranked.

As soon as the engine starts, the flywheel ring gear begins turning fast enough to drive the pinion at an extremely high rate of speed. At this point, the one-way clutch begins allowing the pinion to spin faster than the starter shaft so that the starter will not operate at excessive speed. When the ignition switch is released from the starter position, the solenoid is de-energized, and a spring pulls the gear out of mesh interrupting the current flow to the starter.

Some starters employ a separate relay, mounted away from the starter, to switch the motor and solenoid current on and off. The relay replaces the solenoid electrical switch, but does not eliminate the need for a solenoid mounted on the starter used to mechanically engage the starter drive gears. The relay is used to reduce the amount of current the starting switch must carry.

Ford Oil Pressure Indicator Lamp Sending Unit Replace With Diagrams

Ford F-350 Oil Pressure Indicator Lamp Sending Unit

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2 and 3


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 1: Oil pressure switch location-4.9L engine


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 2: Oil pressure switch location-5.0L/5.8L engines


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 3: Oil pressure switch-7.3L diesel and 7.5L gasoline engines (adapter is for 7.3L only)
  1. Unscrew the unit.
  2. Coat the threads with electrically conductive sealer and screw the unit into place. The torque should be 10-18 ft. lbs. (14-24 Nm).
For the location of your unit, see the accompanying illustrations.
  1. Disconnect the wiring at the unit.

OPERATION



A single terminal oil pressure switch is used on vehicles equipped with an oil pressure lamp.
If the pressure is detected to be at an unsafe level, a red indicator lamp will glow on the dashboard. The light should come on when the engine is off but the ignition is in the RUN position. Once the engine is started, the light should go out.
The lamp is connected between the oil pressure switch unit (mounted on the engine and the coil terminal of the ignition switch.

TESTING



  1. Turn the ignition to the RUN position with the engine not running. The indicator lamp should come on.
  2. If the indicator lamp does not come on, disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch terminal and ground the wire.
  3. If the indicator light comes on, the pressure switch is inoperative. Replace the switch.
  4. If the indicator light fails to come on, either the bulb is burned out, there is no power to the bulb, or the circuit is open somewhere between the bulb and the oil pressure switch.
  5. If the lamp stays on with the engine running and the engine has adequate oil pressure, disconnect the wire to the switch. If the lamp goes out, replace the oil pressure switch. If the lamp does not go out, correct the short in the wiring between the switch and lamp.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figures 4 and 5


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 4: Common oil pressure switch locations


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 5: Common oil pressure switch location

WARNING
The pressure switch used with the oil pressure warning light is not interchangeable with the sending unit used with the oil pressure gauge. If the incorrect part is installed the oil pressure indicating system will be inoperative and the sending unit or gauge will be damaged.

  1. Unplug the connector at the unit and unscrew it from its mounting.
  2. To install the unit, apply pipe sealant or Teflon® tape to the threads of the new switch and screw it in to its mount. Tighten it to 8-18 ft. lbs. (11-24 Nm).
  3. Connect the wiring to the unit.
  4. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation.

Ford Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit Replace

Oil Pressure Gauge Sending Unit 


OPERATION



The oil pressure sending unit is a variable resistance type magnetic unit that works in conjunction with the magnetic operation of the gauge system.
The sensing unit may only be tested for operation. There is no calibration, adjustment or maintenance required.

TESTING



  1. With the key in the RUN position and the engine off, unplug the wiring at the switch. The gauge should read on the LOW graduation or below.
  2. Attach the wiring connector to the engine block (ground). The gauge should read just slightly above mid-scale.
  3. If the oil pressure gauge tests within specification, replace the oil pressure switch.
  4. If the gauge still tests out of calibration, replace the oil pressure gauge.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION




WARNING
The pressure switch used with the oil pressure warning light is not interchangeable with the sending unit used with the oil pressure gauge. If the incorrect part is installed the oil pressure indicating system will be inoperative and the sending unit or gauge will be damaged.

  1. Unplug the connector at the unit and unscrew it from its mounting.
  2. To install the unit, apply pipe sealant or Teflon® tape to the threads of the new switch and screw it in to its mount. Tighten it to 8-18 ft. lbs. (11-24 Nm).
  3. Connect the wiring to the unit.
  4. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation.

Ford Coolant Temperature Sensor Replace With Diagrams

Ford F-350 Coolant Temperature Sensor


OPERATION



When coolant temperature is low, the resistance of the sending unit is high, restricting the flow of current through the gauge and moving the pointer only a short distance. As coolant temperature rises, the resistance of the sending unit decreases, causing a proportional increase in current flow through the sending unit and corresponding movement of the gauge pointer.
The sending unit may only be tested for operation. There is no calibration, adjustment or maintenance required.

TESTING



See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 1: Coolant temperature sender location-4.9L engine


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 2: Coolant temperature sending unit-5.0L/5.8L engine shown, 7.5L engine similar


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 3: Submerge the end of the coolant temperature sensor in cold or hot water and check the resistance


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 4: Coolant temperature sensor temperature vs. resistance values
  1. Remove the sensor from the vehicle.
  2. Immerse the tip of the sensor in container of water.
  3. Connect a digital ohmmeter to the two terminals of the sensor.
  4. Using a calibrated thermometer, compare the resistance of the sensor to the temperature of the water. Refer to the engine coolant sensor temperature vs. resistance illustration.
  5. Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the water as necessary.
  6. If the sensor does not meet specification, it must be replaced.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



For the location of your unit, see the accompanying illustrations.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container.

CAUTION
When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.

  1. Disengage the electrical connector at the temperature sender/switch.
  2. Remove the temperature sender/switch.
To install:
  1. Apply pipe sealant or Teflon® tape to the threads of the new sender/switch.
  2. Install the temperature sender/switch and connect the electrical connector.
  3. Connect the negative battery cable. Fill the cooling system.
  4. Run the engine and check for leaks.


Ford F-350 Engine Firing Order

Ford Firing Order With Diagrams


See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
To avoid confusion, replace spark plug wires one at a time.


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 1: 5.8L engine-nl-> Firing order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8-nl-> Distributor rotation: Counterclockwise


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 2: 4.9L engine-nl-> Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4-nl-> Distributor rotation: Clockwise


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 3: 5.0L and 7.5L engines -nl-> Firing order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8-nl-> Distributor rotation: Counterclockwise


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 4: 6.9L and 7.3L Diesel engines-nl-> Injection order: 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8


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Thanks.

Ford TFI-IV System Details And Diagrams

Ford Engine TFI-IV System


GENERAL INFORMATION



See Figures 1 and 2


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 1: TFI schematic


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the TFI components
The Thick Film Integrated (TFI-IV) ignition system uses a camshaft driven distributor with no centrifugal or vacuum advance. The distributor has a diecast base, incorporating a Hall effect stator assembly. The TFI-IV system module is mounted on the distributor base, it has 6 pins and uses an E-Core ignition coil, named after the shape of the laminations making up the core.
The TFI-IV module supplies voltage to the Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) sensor, which sends the crankshaft position information to the TFI-IV module. The TFI-IV module then sends this information to the EEC-IV module, which determines the spark timing and sends an electronic signal to the TFI-IV ignition module to turn off the coil and produce a spark to fire the spark plug.
The operation of the universal distributor is accomplished through the Hall effect stator assembly, causing the ignition coil to be switched off and on by the EEC-IV computer and TFI-IV modules. The vane switch is an encapsulated package consisting of a Hall sensor on one side and a permanent magnet on the other side.
A rotary vane cup, made of ferrous metal, is used to trigger the Hall effect switch. When the window of the vane cup is between the magnet and the Hall effect device, a magnetic flux field is completed from the magnet through the Hall effect device back to the magnet. As the vane passes through the opening, the flux lines are shunted through the vane and back to the magnet. A voltage is produced while the vane passes through the opening. When the vane clears the opening, the window causes the signal to go to 0 volts. The signal is then used by the EEC-IV system for crankshaft position sensing and the computation of the desired spark advance based on the engine demand and calibration. The voltage distribution is accomplished through a conventional rotor, cap and ignition wires.

GENERAL TESTING



Spark Plug Wire Resistance
Whenever the high tension wires are removed from the plugs, coil, or distributor, silicone grease must be applied to the boot before reconnection. Use a clean small screwdriver blade to coat the entire interior surface with Ford silicone grease D7AZ-19A331-A, Dow Corning #111, or General Electric G-627.
  1. Use spark plug wire removal pliers, or grasp firmly at the boot (not the wire itself) and remove the wires from the plugs, then remove the distributor cap.
  2. Measure the resistance through the distributor cap at that end. Resistance on these wires must not exceed 5,000 ohms per foot. Do not pierce any ignition wire for any reason. Measure only from the two ends.
Adjustments
The air gap between the armature and magnetic pick-up coil in the distributor is not adjustable, nor are there any adjustment for the amplifier module. Inoperative components are simply replaced. Any attempt to connect components outside the vehicle may result in component failure.

TROUBLESHOOTING THE TFI-IV SYSTEM



After performing any test which requires piercing a wire with a straight pin, remove the straight pin and seal the holes in the wire with silicone sealer.
Wiring Harness
  1. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the TFI module; the connector tabs must be PUSHED to disengage the connector. Inspect the connector for damage, dirt, and corrosion.
  2. Attach the negative lead of a voltmeter to the base of the distributor. Attach the other voltmeter lead to a small straight pin. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, insert the straight pin into the No. 1 terminal of the TFI module connector. Note the voltage reading. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, move the straight pin to the No. 2 connector terminal. Again, note the voltage reading. Move the straight pin to the No. 3 connector terminal, then turn the ignition switch to the START position. Note the voltage reading then turn the ignition OFF .
  3. The voltage readings should all be at least 90 percent of the available battery voltage. If the readings are okay, proceed to the Stator Assembly and Module test. If any reading is less than 90 percent of the battery voltage, inspect the wiring, connectors, and/or ignition switch for defects. if the voltage is low only at the No. 1 terminal, proceed to the ignition coil primary voltage test.
Stator Assembly and Module
  1. Remove the distributor from the engine.
  2. Remove the TFI module from the distributor.
  3. Inspect the distributor terminals, ground screw, and stator wiring for damage. Repair as necessary.
  4. Measure the resistance of the stator assembly, using an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reading is 800-975 ohms, the stator is okay, but the TFI module must be replaced. If the ohmmeter reading is less than 800 ohms or more than 975 ohms; the TFI module is okay, but the stator module must be replaced.
  5. Repair as necessary and install the TFI module and the distributor.
Primary Circuit Continuity
This test is performed in the same manner as the previous Wiring Harness test, but only the No. 1 terminal conductor is tested (ignition switch in Run position). If the voltage is less than 90 percent of the available battery voltage, proceed to the coil primary voltage test.

Ford Ignition Module With Diagrams

Ford F-350 Ignition Module Replacement Procedure


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



See Figure 1


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 1: A TFI-IV ignition module
  1. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor, and set it aside (spark plug wires still connected).
  2. Disconnect the harness connector.
  3. Remove the distributor.
  4. Remove the TFI module retaining screws.

WARNING
Step 5 must be followed EXACTLY; failure to do so will result in damage to the distributor module connector pins.

  1. To disengage the TFI module's terminals from the distributor base connector, pull the right side of the module down the distributor mounting flange and then back up. Carefully pull the module toward the flange and away from the distributor.
  2. Coat the TFI module baseplate with a thin layer of silicone grease (FD7AZ-19A331-A or its equivalent).
  3. Place the TFI module on the distributor base mounting flange. Position the module assembly toward the distributor bowl and carefully engage the distributor connector pins. Install and torque the two TFI module retaining screws to 9-16 inch lbs.
  4. Install the distributor assembly.
  5. Install the distributor cap and check the engine timing.